Losing My Religion
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.6 from 165 votes
Type: | Trad, 205 ft (62 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Tony Calderone, Stan Contrell |
Page Views: | 9,823 total · 70/month |
Shared By: | Jack Daniels on Sep 22, 2012 · Updates |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1 -Two layback sections that take good pro, with a bolt protected slab section between them. A thoughtful mantel at the 2nd bolt is the highlight of this pitch. Chain anchors (95')
P2 - Up a bit, then a fun step to the left with two choices as to what to grab to make it happen. Don't sling the chock stone at your feet to protect this move as it seems a bit loose. Climb Left Clipping Two bolts and moving right past the Pin. mantling your way to the belay ledge.
P3 - Head up from the left side of the ledge (or right for some spice) past three bolts. Fun slab moves as you trend left towards to the crack where you find the original belay anchors, though one of the chains seems to have been eaten by varmints... so clip the remainder and go right to the anchors for a neighboring 5.10ish route. (70' or so to secondary anchors)
Fun to lead, easy to follow.
P2 - Up a bit, then a fun step to the left with two choices as to what to grab to make it happen. Don't sling the chock stone at your feet to protect this move as it seems a bit loose. Climb Left Clipping Two bolts and moving right past the Pin. mantling your way to the belay ledge.
P3 - Head up from the left side of the ledge (or right for some spice) past three bolts. Fun slab moves as you trend left towards to the crack where you find the original belay anchors, though one of the chains seems to have been eaten by varmints... so clip the remainder and go right to the anchors for a neighboring 5.10ish route. (70' or so to secondary anchors)
Fun to lead, easy to follow.
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