Bolted multi-pitch, not swapping leads: anchor tactics
|
Because everyone here loves to argue about anchors... |
|
YER GUNNA DIEEE - sorry just had to get that outta my system |
|
I don't see a problem with that, as long as you can fit the extra biners on the bolt hangers (I assume you would anchor in the same way, which means 2 biners on each bolt while you're both at the anchor). |
|
If your partner is connected to both bolts, she can belay you off her harness safely. She'll basically building a TR setup by redirecting the rope upward through a biner on one of the anchors. |
|
DCohen wrote:Which is to say, can she just leash into one bolt, clove into the other with her end of the rope, and then belay me as normal?Yes |
|
Tradgic Yogurt wrote:She'll basically building a TR setup by redirecting the rope upward through a biner on one of the anchors.Tradgic, either I'm not understanding what you're saying, or I didn't explain fully. I will be leading all of the pitches. I'm talking about having her belay me on lead while she is directly tethered into the bolts. |
|
I think it will be fine. I do this with my GF a lot but choose to bring up two 4' runners pre-tied. She can just clove on a locker on the MP with the rope, keeps the static leash out of the equation even if you shouldn't fall. She hands me all the draws and the last anchor and I am off. I actually just did this same thing on this route: mountainproject.com/v/carte… |
|
Sounds like a pretty standard setup. You'll be fine with the situation as you described it. |
|
DCohen wrote: Tradgic, either I'm not understanding what you're saying, or I didn't explain fully. I will be leading all of the pitches. I'm talking about having her belay me on lead while she is directly tethered into the bolts.My bad. I misinterpreted your description, I thought she would be leading/top belaying. In which case, carry on, what you're describing should be ok, though I like Parker's idea about belayer cloving to master point. |
|
4 - 1 OZ biners and 2 dyneema quads, made from 48" runners and and a locker for your partner to clove with. You've got yourself 2, straight forward, bomber anchors and weigh in at about 6OZ total. |
|
My usual tactic when bringing an inexperienced climber is to keep things as simple and mistake proof as possible for them. For me this means keeping their end of the rope entirely out of the anchor. They don't mess with their anchor till their on belay and their rope is taught. I don't want them having to untie part of their attachment. So i'll usually build an easy pre-equalized anchor with a tied 48" runner (or quad), and have them clip to it with a tether / PAS. This is the only time i actually recommend using a PAS and not the rope. |
|
When guideing / leading in blocks on multi pitch I carry two pre tied 4ft sewn runners in the Quad style. fastest and simple method. |
|
If it is bolted anchors all the way up I would do the following, it is pretty much idiot proof so you really should not have to worry about the person following doing anything wrong. |
|
the quad is self equalizeing and made of standard sewn 4ft runner. it's about as simple as it gets for leading in blocks... |
|
Nick Goldsmith wrote:the quad is self equalizeing and made of standard sewn 4ft runner. it's about as simple as it gets for leading in blocks...This. It's so simple and super bomber so it's well worth the extra weight and space in your luggage. |
|
The simplest with least amount of gear. Only four biners required. |
|
|
|
make the quad with sewn 4ft runner. much lighter and less bulky than the cordelet method. also you can use the runner on the pitch if nessicary. |
|
Nick Goldsmith wrote:make the quad with sewn 4ft runner. much lighter and less bulky than the cordelet method. also you can use the runner on the pitch if nessicary.Only works with skinny dyneema runner's, fwiw. I've found with Nylon sling the knot's take up too much material. But there's really no reason you need a quad specifically. If you carry one anchor set-up, and your 2nd carries the other, you never have to carry more than 1 anchor up a pitch. Two 4ft slings will do the job for bolted anchors. Clip the bolts, tie a master point, and clove in. Belay up the 2nd, and have them clove in with their own locker. Transfer gear and the 2nd anchor gear, and lead the next pitch. Build anchor, etc. 2nd get's on belay, removes the clove, and breaks down the anchor and climbs up. Repeat. You may need 1 extra locker, but it saves time over a tether and the rope directly to the bolts. No need for a separate tether with this set up. |
|
seems to work just fine for me.... I try to Never use skinny Dynema for the actual masterpoint. I do only use the quad for leading in blocks though I often have that pre tied sling in my rack for slinging stuff... |
|
Nick Goldsmith wrote: I try to Never use skinny Dynema for the actual masterpoint.Why? Also that looks like a Duo not a quad. |