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Liberty and Injustice for All
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 14
votes
Routes in Liberty Bell
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A Servant To Liberty T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Beckey Route (SW Face) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dark Side of Liberty T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a V9-10 7C+ |
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Freedom or Death T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Freedom Rider T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Girl Next Door, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Independence Route, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Liberty and Injustice for All T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Liberty Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2 |
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Liberty Crack (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Liberty Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Live Free or Die!™ T V5+ 6C+ |
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Northwest Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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NW Face Var. (Remsberg Variation) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Overexposure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rapple Grapple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Serpentine Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sidewinder (Southwest Corner) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thin Red Line T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 650 ft (197 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Mikey Schaefer |
| Page Views: | 5,389 total · 46/month |
| Shared By: | Mikey Schaefer on Sep 12, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
Liberty and Injustice takes a line 10m or so to the right of Thin Red Line. It is characterized by solid edges and thin crack features. It has a distinctly different feel than either Liberty Crack of TRL. The cruxes are mostly short boulder problems that lead to good holds and progressively easier climbing. Both of the 5.12- cruxes also come at the beginning of the pitches which should make them fairly easy to workout and then send.
Two of the pitches share climbing with Liberty Loop, an obscure aid route established by Pete Doorish, Chris Chandler and Jim Langdon in 1975. A couple of their old 3/16" bolts can be seen along the way. A couple of the bolts snapped right off with a slight touch of the hammer!
The gear is a mix of bolts and small cams. Some may find the small cams to be tricky to place but they are solid once they go in. Overall the protection is very solid but the occasional move has to be done above your gear.
After 5 pitches (about 200m of climbing) it joins at the top of pitch 7 on Thin Red Line. Future parties can either continue on or rappel with two ropes from here. The rap is straightforward. From the top of P3 skip the P2 anchor and go straight to the P1 anchor. All anchors are two bolts with fixed biners.
I established this route solo over 8 days of work. I'd planned on doing it ground up but after a fair bit of consideration I thought that pre-inspection would create a better overall experience and would reduce the risk of a botched and contrived route. I'm pleased with how it turned out. I redpointed the route rope solo which definitely added to the excitement and challenge for me! It turns out it is kinda scary to not have anyone holding the break strand of the Gri-gri when you are pulling tenuous moves of 5.12....
Two of the pitches share climbing with Liberty Loop, an obscure aid route established by Pete Doorish, Chris Chandler and Jim Langdon in 1975. A couple of their old 3/16" bolts can be seen along the way. A couple of the bolts snapped right off with a slight touch of the hammer!
The gear is a mix of bolts and small cams. Some may find the small cams to be tricky to place but they are solid once they go in. Overall the protection is very solid but the occasional move has to be done above your gear.
After 5 pitches (about 200m of climbing) it joins at the top of pitch 7 on Thin Red Line. Future parties can either continue on or rappel with two ropes from here. The rap is straightforward. From the top of P3 skip the P2 anchor and go straight to the P1 anchor. All anchors are two bolts with fixed biners.
I established this route solo over 8 days of work. I'd planned on doing it ground up but after a fair bit of consideration I thought that pre-inspection would create a better overall experience and would reduce the risk of a botched and contrived route. I'm pleased with how it turned out. I redpointed the route rope solo which definitely added to the excitement and challenge for me! It turns out it is kinda scary to not have anyone holding the break strand of the Gri-gri when you are pulling tenuous moves of 5.12....
Photos
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