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> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Smoke Bluffs
> Octopus Garden
Pipe Dream
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.6 from 110
votes
Routes in Octopus Garden
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Alan's Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Call Any Vegetable T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Edible Panties T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Electric Ball T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Fist Full of Yoghurt T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Generation X T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Harry's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Leonissisation S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Monkey Coefficient T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Octopus Garden in the Shade T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pipe Dream T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Root Canal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unearthly Delights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unnamed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Up 2u T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Dave Jones, Ray Parker 1982 |
| Page Views: | 2,647 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Bobby Hanson on May 17, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Fun hands, fists, and stacked hands. If you stay in the wide crack the whole way, the crux comes near the top. Otherwise you can hand traverse right at a horizontal crack into Monkey Quotient to an easier hand crack.
Location
The wide crack with the large tree in it, just to the right of Octopus Garden in the Shade. Rappel the route off two bolts.
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