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Surveyer's Route (The Flake)
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 8
votes
Routes in 4. Middle Forist Area
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Berliner (Ich Ben Ein Berliner) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Green Mile, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hostile Territory T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mantle Peace S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Middle Forist (Climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Old Days T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Shining Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Skate-y Cat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Surveyer's Route (The Flake) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | probably Paul Cormier, then cleaned by Brad White & Dave Kelly |
| Page Views: | 866 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Aug 3, 2016 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
START - Down and right of Middle Forist, at a slab below THE flake.
This is climb #14 in the pamphlet guide.
P1 - Scramble up the ladder (A-1 ?!) and head for the flake. (A good cam placement at the base, then only thin wired nuts along the "layback" flake. [finger tips at best). At a good horizontal, step right onto the slab. Then up (gear only) past one not-so-solid right-facing flake, and continue on (5.5 PG-13 ?) horizontal flakes and small ledges to the anchor shared with "Berliner". 110-115 ft 5.7 / 5.7+ PG-13. Rap with a 70m rope; with a 60m it may be possible to reach the fern-covered terrace on the right.
Top Rope Variation [photo]- Climb the dark rock a few feet left of the layback flake, continue straight above the overlap and horizontal crack (i.e. don't step right). Merge with the regular line about 20-25 ft above the horizontal. 5.9 / 5.9+
This is climb #14 in the pamphlet guide.
P1 - Scramble up the ladder (A-1 ?!) and head for the flake. (A good cam placement at the base, then only thin wired nuts along the "layback" flake. [finger tips at best). At a good horizontal, step right onto the slab. Then up (gear only) past one not-so-solid right-facing flake, and continue on (5.5 PG-13 ?) horizontal flakes and small ledges to the anchor shared with "Berliner". 110-115 ft 5.7 / 5.7+ PG-13. Rap with a 70m rope; with a 60m it may be possible to reach the fern-covered terrace on the right.
Top Rope Variation [photo]- Climb the dark rock a few feet left of the layback flake, continue straight above the overlap and horizontal crack (i.e. don't step right). Merge with the regular line about 20-25 ft above the horizontal. 5.9 / 5.9+
Protection
Gear - thin wires for crux section.
see comment by Lucas Hartford 8/25/23 on added bolts.
Beware placing any cams behind the not-so-solid flake (good gear in crack a couple of inches higher) Bad enough you'll be standing on the flake, you don't want it prying out with cam-action if you blow the move onto the flake.
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