Type: Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 5,704 total · 58/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Mar 11, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

For years route developers (my self included) looked at this face and failed to see this line that Chris Smith's well trained eye managed to pick out. When he told me about the line he could read the skepticism on my face and said "I know ::shrug:: go see for your self, it's good". He's Right! A pretty short but very engaging line climbs the already shared start of Metamorphosis and Clusterphobia (Though an added bolt will make it less of a cluster) and breaks right in to the steep wall.

Follow the rail to the right after the relatively easy start. This rail gets less possessive as you move farther right. When the rail ends, a powerful move gets you to a jug and a clip. The crux involves an obvious underling crimp and the crimps above which will get you to a jug and the chain anchors.

My take away from the climb was that I loved the subtle footwork and weight shifts that were necessary for me to make the crux holds work.

Location Suggest change

look to the left of the birch tree on the elevated ledge, This is the line of stainless glue-ins on the steep face.

Protection Suggest change

5(?) shiny glue-ins to the chain anchor.

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