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Hell Bent for Glory
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.7 from 77
votes
Routes in The Diamond
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A National Acrobat T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Asterisk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Radish, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Centerfold T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dark Crystal, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dihedral Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3-4 R |
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Dog Fight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dreamweaver S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Earth's Clitoris S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hell Bent for Glory T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hell Bent For Leather S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Master of Reality T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Megalomania S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Nativity in Black T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Nothing but Net S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nug, The S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V6-7 7A+ |
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R. O. U. S. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sabbra Cadabra T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 7 pitches |
| FA: | P1,3-5 FA Fred Grafton, Jim Yoder P2,6-7 FA Derek Pearson, Michal Rynkiwicz, Chandler Davis, Ryan Hoover |
| Page Views: | 10,248 total · 77/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Hoover on May 10, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
An old route that has recently been retro fitted and cleaned. 1 aid pitch (an old dead tree that was climbed) turned free and 2 new pitches make for a sustained 5.10/5.10+ route that goes up clean featured stone to the top of the Diamond.
P1: 5.6 Follow the left-trending crack.
P2: 5.10d Follow the corner to another ledge. Climb directly above the ledge pulling bouldery moves on bolts. Belay below the obvious corner in Hell Bent.
One could also climb the second pitch of Sabbra Cadabra to get to the Ledge (5.10).
P3: 5.10 Long, continuous left-facing dihedral. A stunner! Double rack from .75 to 3". A single .5 and #3 as well. The only gear you need after this pitch is a single rack to 2".
P4: 5.10 Straight up off the belay to two bolts. Right traverse to a dike.
P5: 5.10- Follow the beautiful leftward traversing dike.
P6: 5.10 Climb left out of the glory hole. Slightly cryptic climbing to start leads up good holds on steep white granite.
P7: 5.10 Climb easy terrain to a bolt. Follow the short corner to fun blocky overhung terrain to an out of this world exposed roof finish that sits over the whole wall! Very useful to extend the bolts to prevent rope drag.
P1: 5.6 Follow the left-trending crack.
P2: 5.10d Follow the corner to another ledge. Climb directly above the ledge pulling bouldery moves on bolts. Belay below the obvious corner in Hell Bent.
One could also climb the second pitch of Sabbra Cadabra to get to the Ledge (5.10).
P3: 5.10 Long, continuous left-facing dihedral. A stunner! Double rack from .75 to 3". A single .5 and #3 as well. The only gear you need after this pitch is a single rack to 2".
P4: 5.10 Straight up off the belay to two bolts. Right traverse to a dike.
P5: 5.10- Follow the beautiful leftward traversing dike.
P6: 5.10 Climb left out of the glory hole. Slightly cryptic climbing to start leads up good holds on steep white granite.
P7: 5.10 Climb easy terrain to a bolt. Follow the short corner to fun blocky overhung terrain to an out of this world exposed roof finish that sits over the whole wall! Very useful to extend the bolts to prevent rope drag.
Protection
Single Rack to 4". Doubles from .75 - 2". 12 draws, with about half being alpine draws. We didn't place any nuts. Rappel the route with a 70 meter rope.
Location
Follow the tracks from town to the Lookout Point trail. Follow it all the way to the Rattletale wall rock gully. Continue up the gully up and left toward the Duck Wall. Skirt left along the base of the Duck Wall to the Diamond Gully. In winter this can be flowing water, but can still be climbed using the fixed lines (Fresh from Winter 2017). Continue up the gully until you hit a split at the base of the diamond. Head right at the junction and follow the trail up to an obvious splitter 40 feet past Centerfold.
Photos
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