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Routes in Main Moonstone
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36 Views of Lone Mountain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Across the Globe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blue Moon S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Blue-Eyed Sandbagger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Central Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Egg Shells T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Faster We Go, The Rounder We Get, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Feldspar Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Flake Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Floating World S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jambalaya T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Solstice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stargazer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wind Walker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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World is Flat, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Zircon Encrusted Geezers S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | NOLS? |
| Page Views: | 1,268 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | rob bauer on Jul 20, 2016 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Sticky situation
Details
This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
Description
This isn't my route, but I had a blast on a route that gets to the top in 3 full pitches without a single bolt. (Great fun and maybe a break for your calf muscles?) We used a 60 m rope and ran it out to the end at every pitch, but you could pick your spot based on your pro/length of rope. This is route 19 on Bob Branscomb's excellent topo pitctured on the main page.
Route is in the shade in the later afternoon. I put question marks on 2 exits that we used, unroped. You walk down after crossing over the entire dome to the slabs at the far left. (Bring shoes?) Alternatively, if you know where the routes are that almost top out, you could carry an extra rope and rap down to the cabin, probably.
Route is in the shade in the later afternoon. I put question marks on 2 exits that we used, unroped. You walk down after crossing over the entire dome to the slabs at the far left. (Bring shoes?) Alternatively, if you know where the routes are that almost top out, you could carry an extra rope and rap down to the cabin, probably.
Location
There are 3 major traversing cracks on the right 1/4 of the dome (actually the first thing you see when pull into the area). This starts where all of the crack routes start, below the obvious roof of the Flake Route, and a bit right from a big flat rock. It is the middle crack of the 3 traversing cracks.
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