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Rock Climbing Photo: After climbing this formation a couple times via d...
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By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Jul 19, 2016
agreed, from what I've looked into this is the 5.8 route. the short crack to the left of the red line on the second pitch of the picture is a 10- variation.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 19, 2016
Yeah agreed. Straight up from the belay into that discontinuous crack system seemed 10- for sure, and scary to start as you are looking at decking on the belay ledge if you flub up anything low.
By Ryan Emery
From: Black Hills, SD
Oct 21, 2016
My brother went straight up the cracks on the left for start of P2... He went to emergency room after falling 35ft and popped a piece or two. When I looked at it the second time I attempted this route, it looks hard to protect.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 22, 2016
Whoa. That's crazy. Yeah the left cracks were difficult and tricky to protect. I've now done it both ways and the way outlined here in red is preferable...
By Brandon Emery
From: Laramie WY
Jun 23, 2017
Yeah, the 10- is quite hard to protect. I took a very unpleasant fall attempting to lead it due to rock breaking around my gear. Not fun!!
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After climbing this formation a couple times via different lines, I think this is the 5.8 line most would consider the easiest way up Eyetooth. After the first gulley pitch (dotted line - gulley not able to be seen from this angle) belay from the ledge, and go right up the large flake, making your way up and left via the flakes to the final bolted slab.

Submitted By: Chris treggE on Jul 19, 2016
On this route:
Eyetooth (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c )
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