Best non climbing-specific training texts?

I hope other folks are interested...
I'd like to develop a list of the best texts that cover the background knowledge base of general training.
Climbing specific resources are widely known amongst us- Horst, MacLeod, Andsons, etc.

But what's the best book on sports nutrition? Periodization? Weight training? and so on.

I'm primarily interested in college level texts or above. But others might well appreciate more layperson level recommendations.

I'll start with two of my favorites-

Applied Sport Psychology: Personal growth to peak performance

amazon.com/Applied-Sport-Ps…

and

The Physiology of training for high Performance

amazon.com/Physiology-Train…*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Both excellent resources. But maybe get them from the library!

I have been reading Sports Biomechanics: The basics. It's ok, but would love a recommendation for something better. But not too mathematical!

amazon.com/Sports-Biomechan…

Also a reference for a good kinesiology book?

A good weight training book would be helpful too, but preferably not overly loaded with "bro science."

Mark, as you know I used to pedal way too much. Back then, the text that tied all the best training principles together was known as "The Cyclists Training Bible".

Predictably, we're now up the 4th edition and there is a website that offers individualized coaching plans and a blog and triathlon stuff and all that garbage.

I no longer have my first edition with old photo's of the Coors Classic or I'd send it over to you. It spells out training, all training, in simple and logical terms. It gives you guidelines and finds a way of balancing between overtraining and trying to upgrade to race with the pro's.

It's not collegiate at all. It's suitable for a junior high reader. If the Boulder Library has a 1st edition (if any library does, they do), it's totally worth the half hour of browsing to pick up training gems. Even if you don't ride a bike.

Library has the 4th edition, so I'll take a look.

A friend (do you know Rui?) has pointed out to me that cyclists have a unique ability to measure power output and therefor a unique ability to tailor metabolic training.

Will be interesting to learn more about how they do it.

Mark E Dixon wrote:Library has the 4th edition, so I'll take a look. A friend (do you know Rui?) has pointed out to me that cyclists have a unique ability to measure power output and therefor a unique ability to tailor metabolic training. Will be interesting to learn more about how they do it.

I'm pretty out of it these days. I haven't raced since 2006 or 7. Back then there were several options to measure wattage. A hub, a crank, and a chain tension meter (inaccurate). The advantage of the system was that you could set a wattage goal which is a much more objective measure than speed or even HR. A measure like this would be near impossible without a machine interface. Runners, climbers, and greco-roman wrestlers just don't have that same ability. It is unique and from a kin perspective (my first degree) super cool. I'm not sure how much it matters if you're not fighting for a yellow jersey though.

Today many cyclists: amateurs and professionals are basing all their training on power measurements. The technology is relatively affordable and provides tremendous amount of statistically based information to improve performance. There are many online packages and training services that provide the data analysis making the whole system overall very efficient. Some petal based power systems even measure power output around the full range of pedaling motion and distinguish left and right side so weaknesses can be addressed.

A recommended reference is "Training and Racing with a Power Meter" by Hunter Allen & Andrew Coggan, 2006 1st ed. This book has tailored training for sprinters, time trialists, etc. It also was the first book to introduce more advanced Power metrics such as Intensity Factors and Training Stress Scores to gauge the difficulty of races and training sessions.

Another book that I recommend, which is not necessarily about training, but is relatively important for climbing is "Stability, Sport and Performance Movement", by Joanne Elphinston, 2nd ed. 2013. You cannot climb at your best if your body is not able to move efficiently and this reference does a great job breaking down the body into three major zones and how to get each one functioning properly and sequentially.

For strength training there are some many great references, but from a climbing perspective Steve Becthel's book is sufficient to get you started and achieve great results. "Strength: Foundational Training for Rock Climbing"

Rippetoe's Starting Strength is a pretty good start for weight training.

If you want more sport specific and high level stuff, look for Verkhoshansky: Supertraining and Special Strength Training.

Tim Noakes Lore of Running and Dicharry's Anatomy for Runners are my go-tos for that sport.

I'm not as interested in specific texts but would be psyched to hear folks thoughts on which authors they like based on subject.

Strength Training and Periodization:
Tudor Bompa

Pavel Tsatsouline (the guy that introduced KB's to the world)(Website:Strong First)

Verkhoshansky (Tons of info on all the cool stuff eastern block countries were studying while the U.S. was obsessed w/ cardiovascular performance during the 70's and 80's)

Rippetoe, Gregg Everett, Charles Poliquin and Dan John are all also worth checking out.

If you want to dive into the more esoteric realm of movement patterning:

Stuart McGill, Gray Cook, Mike Boyle, Dan John, Mark Cheng, Eric Cressey and Kelly Starrett all come to mind.

If you haven't checked out Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi he's got some interesting work on the psychological aspects of peak performance.

Now I digress and will most likely start a shit storm.
There are no good books on nutrition. Most of the info on dietary practices for performance are outdated and myopic. If you want to check out some really interesting folks on the subject of human metabolism and energy management check out
Peter Attia's blog and also the work of Jeff Volek and Stephen Phinney.

Hopefully some folks post up on this one. Always psyched to learn something new.
Thanks Mark.

amazon.com/Exercise-Physiol…

I got an older edition of Powers and Howley at Goodwill. It is great. I've read it and re-read it many times over the last 7 years.

Brent Apgar wrote:Tudor Bompa Charles Poliquin Stuart McGill, Gray Cook, Mike Boyle, Eric Cressey

+1

Mel Siff (who actually wrote Supertraining as well)
Douglas Brooks
Juan Carlos Santana (always loved his creativity with training and body weight exercises as well)
Kraemer and Fleck

Look up titles put out by Human Kinetics, you are sure to find tons of great stuff for the most part.

I think it's too bad I can't think of any women's names. I'll have to consider it some more. Unfortunately the S&C field is lacking in that department. I was frequently one of just a very few women at any given S&C conference back in the day. There are were almost never female presenters unless they were PTs. I would have tried to pursue a collegiate S&C position if the road to get there wasn't so long, shitty, and poorly compensated (which is the case for both genders).

I used to go to school with a woman named Ann Frederick. She is a stretching guru. She has some sort of gift I never saw others have, and she augmented it by strapping people to her custom-made tables. She has put out some books about fascial stretching. I read her book Stretch to Win. Kinda dumb title but worth picking up.

All my other go-to's are college texts and NSCA texts.

Aerili wrote: All my other go-to's are college texts and NSCA texts.

I'd be interested in the details of any texts you thought were especially worthwhile.