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Routes in Main Wall
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German and the Scot, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Highrise Buttress Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Moss and Choss T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Perennials T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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West Face Ramble T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | V. Keller and A. Vidal |
| Page Views: | 1,030 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Vidal on Jul 18, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Perennials is a ground-up established alpine route that exists as a 4 pitch variation (and direct start) to the last pitch of "Moss and Choss."
To the left of the large gully, which leads to other routes in the Main Area, exists a somewhat obvious face climbing passage below 3 moss-fill crack systems. Start here.
Pitch 1. Climb up without protection towards the most prominent and leftmost dihedral system, and place protection (remember to extend). Start trending right up the run out but moderate slab past a few protection opportunities. Traverse on positive holds up and right towards (5.7-5.8 R mantel) the low angle ramp and belay beneath a short but steep twin crack system which is just to the left of the large gully, 50m 5.8 R.
Pitch 2. Climb up the twin crack system making 5.9 moves past good protection opportunities. Continue up discontinuous and easy crack systems to a corner, and belay at the end of the rope before a small ramp, 70m, 5.9.
Pitch 3. Angle up and right on the easy ramp past protection opportunities, and belay beneath the large, left-angling roof above near the end of the rope, 70m, Easy 5th.
Pitch 4. The crux pitch. Climb up and right slightly from the belay and onto a small sloping ledge. Follow an intermittent crack system into the left-angling roof on black rock. Move 30ft left through the roof crack and pull into a small pod (5.9+ R). Chimney up and left through a second roof (5.9), and move up a moderate ramp towards the base of the "Moss and Choss" crack system. Hexes may be useful in adequately protecting the crux roof traverse, 60m, 5.9+ R.
Pitch 5. Proceed up the final pitch of "Moss and Choss," taking special care to utilize good protection opportunities in solid rock, when they are encountered. Much loose rock exists on the pitch, so it is a good idea to belay clear of this pitch until it cleans up, 65m, 5.8+ PG-13.
To the left of the large gully, which leads to other routes in the Main Area, exists a somewhat obvious face climbing passage below 3 moss-fill crack systems. Start here.
Pitch 1. Climb up without protection towards the most prominent and leftmost dihedral system, and place protection (remember to extend). Start trending right up the run out but moderate slab past a few protection opportunities. Traverse on positive holds up and right towards (5.7-5.8 R mantel) the low angle ramp and belay beneath a short but steep twin crack system which is just to the left of the large gully, 50m 5.8 R.
Pitch 2. Climb up the twin crack system making 5.9 moves past good protection opportunities. Continue up discontinuous and easy crack systems to a corner, and belay at the end of the rope before a small ramp, 70m, 5.9.
Pitch 3. Angle up and right on the easy ramp past protection opportunities, and belay beneath the large, left-angling roof above near the end of the rope, 70m, Easy 5th.
Pitch 4. The crux pitch. Climb up and right slightly from the belay and onto a small sloping ledge. Follow an intermittent crack system into the left-angling roof on black rock. Move 30ft left through the roof crack and pull into a small pod (5.9+ R). Chimney up and left through a second roof (5.9), and move up a moderate ramp towards the base of the "Moss and Choss" crack system. Hexes may be useful in adequately protecting the crux roof traverse, 60m, 5.9+ R.
Pitch 5. Proceed up the final pitch of "Moss and Choss," taking special care to utilize good protection opportunities in solid rock, when they are encountered. Much loose rock exists on the pitch, so it is a good idea to belay clear of this pitch until it cleans up, 65m, 5.8+ PG-13.
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