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Point of No Return
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,466 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Larry S on Jul 6, 2013 |
Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Falcon Closure
Details
A temporary closure of Mt. Minsi within Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area (DEWA) to climbing and hiking will be in effect starting February 14, 2023 to protect nesting peregrine falcons.
The closure is: "The cliffs at Mount Minsi from Point of Gap parking lot to Arrow Island parking lot, from the west shoulder of Route 611 to the top of the ridge, in the Pennsylvania District, will be closed to rock climbing and hiking through approximately early August to prevent human disturbance to nesting peregrine falcons."
Official designated trails are not affected by this closure, meaning hikers can still use Arrow Island Trail and the Appalachian Trail. Official trails and maps are located on the park website at: nps.gov/dewa/planyourvisit/…
Closure signage will be posted near the parking areas.
The closure is: "The cliffs at Mount Minsi from Point of Gap parking lot to Arrow Island parking lot, from the west shoulder of Route 611 to the top of the ridge, in the Pennsylvania District, will be closed to rock climbing and hiking through approximately early August to prevent human disturbance to nesting peregrine falcons."
Official designated trails are not affected by this closure, meaning hikers can still use Arrow Island Trail and the Appalachian Trail. Official trails and maps are located on the park website at: nps.gov/dewa/planyourvisit/…
Closure signage will be posted near the parking areas.
Description
This route follows the outside of the arch of the land of the giants wall. The first pitch is moderately runout on easy 5.4 terrain to a delicate 5.7 traverse (swing potential) ending at the belay in the corner under the roof. The second pitch continues to traverse left, following a finger crack on perfect clean quartzite, then heads abruptly up at 5.8+, or continues at 5.6 if you keep traversing.
Pitch 1 - 5.7 PG13 - Begin almost as far right as possible on the Land of the Giants Wall, at the only spot the clean rock extends to the ground. Follow the path of least resistance up the rock to small ledge above a notch at about 60 feet (some loose rock, not much pro).. make a few moves to the right up a groove, then angle left up an easy slab, towards the arete of the arch. Get gear in a short diagonal finger crack. Either go around then up, or up then around the blunt arete to a slabby face with very little gear (I found a blue ballnut handy here). Continue to traverse across the delicate face (crux) for 15 feet to the left facing corner below the roof. Hanging belay on ample fingers sized gear.
Pitch 2 - 5.8+/5.6 G - Follow the finger crack above the left side of the belay around the outside corner (exposed, wild), and continue to traverse for 25 feet to a right facing inside corner above a small alcove. (V1) Move awkwardly up the corner (crux, huge reach, 5.8++), then diagonal left and belay on gear or trees above the rappel tree on surprise.
V1 - 5.6 G - Continue traversing for another 20 feet, following the same crack (very small gear) to a left facing inside corner (top of Cheiftan). Move up this corner for 15 feet to the top.
Pitch 1 - 5.7 PG13 - Begin almost as far right as possible on the Land of the Giants Wall, at the only spot the clean rock extends to the ground. Follow the path of least resistance up the rock to small ledge above a notch at about 60 feet (some loose rock, not much pro).. make a few moves to the right up a groove, then angle left up an easy slab, towards the arete of the arch. Get gear in a short diagonal finger crack. Either go around then up, or up then around the blunt arete to a slabby face with very little gear (I found a blue ballnut handy here). Continue to traverse across the delicate face (crux) for 15 feet to the left facing corner below the roof. Hanging belay on ample fingers sized gear.
Pitch 2 - 5.8+/5.6 G - Follow the finger crack above the left side of the belay around the outside corner (exposed, wild), and continue to traverse for 25 feet to a right facing inside corner above a small alcove. (V1) Move awkwardly up the corner (crux, huge reach, 5.8++), then diagonal left and belay on gear or trees above the rappel tree on surprise.
V1 - 5.6 G - Continue traversing for another 20 feet, following the same crack (very small gear) to a left facing inside corner (top of Cheiftan). Move up this corner for 15 feet to the top.
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