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Routes in Shady Rock
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Bad Influence S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cotton Mouth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dog Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Herpes Simplex S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shady Rock Traverse V2 5+ |
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Slot Nose S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Small Man Complex S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Special Effects S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tall Man Simplex S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tree Killer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Brad Watson (Flash) 12/23/91 |
| Page Views: | 2,405 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Morgan Brown on Aug 31, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
This route is next to "Special Effects" on Shady Rock's west face. Enjoy 20 feet of 5.6 hand work in trademark Castle Rock caves and flakes. The first bolt is quite high. The second is just below a cave which is under the prominent bulge which crosses the entire rock. There are numerous opportunities to place medium cams or slot medium-to-large nuts on the way up. The crux is just below the anchor. Try to lieback a right-facing corner, and have faith as you reach up for high hands. They're not quite "thank god" pockets, but they're a helluva lot better than nothing. This route would definitely be rated 5.9 at many other areas.
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