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Routes in Mt. Ogden
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Battle Rattle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gray Slabs, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wishful Thinking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Unknown this ascent Derek DeBruin, John Fisher, Dan Newman |
| Page Views: | 2,139 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Derek DeBruin on Jul 5, 2016 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
This route ascends directly up the northeast face of Mount Ogden. It features more continuous climbing than that found on the "Gray Slabs." Engaging movement, good shade in the afternoon, and a direct line make this a good test piece for the 5.8 leader.
Begin atop the scree/talus pile of the apron below the NE face (around the buttress right of the Gray Slabs). Start right of a large right-facing corner and left of a chossy-looking ramp that angles up and right.
P1 low 5th 80 ft:
Wander up for about 50 on beautiful polished, compact rock, picking the line of least resistance through terrain with spaced out protection. Angle up and right to the base of a left-angling ramp under an overhang. Switchback left up the ramp and belay at the apex of the ramp in a short right-facing corner on finger size gear. Check out the old bong piton while you're at it.
P2 5.8 130 ft:
An awesome pitch! Step left off the belay around the corner to good pro in a short crack. After this, head up and slightly left on super fun crimps, edges, and dishes. A few small pieces lead to a bolt, followed by a short right-facing flake/crack. From the crack, begin trending right to another bolt. Continue up and right to a bolt at the small overhang. Pull the overhang and head straight up to a 2-bolt anchor. Bring plenty of small gear.
P3 5.7 130 ft :
Reasonably fun climbing, but still pretty dirty. Head up the face aiming for the right side of a small tree. Past this tree, trend up and leftward, passing a small roof through its weakness on the right. Finish on a spacious ledge under the shade and security of a large evergreen and belay.
P4 5.7 60 ft:
Walk across the tree ledge and climb the short, clean face to the tree ledge just above. A portent of the equally good pitches above. Belay at a tree.
P5 5.7 150 ft:
From the P4 belay, move the belay across the ledge to the right about 50 feet, ending at the left-facing corner. A tree at the lip of the ledge provides a new anchor. Climb the slab above following the easiest moves on rock that yields easier climbing and better protection than it first appears (though pro is amply spaced at times).
As the climbing tapers, head up and right across a sloping ledge system (beware loose rock!) and belay at the base of a short left-facing corner system.
There is a dug-out placement in a low horizontal crack for a 0.75. The corner crack needs either a tipped out #3 or a #4; unfortunately, this is the only place a #4 is needed on the entire route.
P6 5.6 100ft:
Climb the short face immediately above the belay (no pro) to the ledge, then walk right across the ledge and step up to sink a bomber #2 camalot in a pod near a small grassy crack. Continue up the face aiming to finish just left of the apex of the pyramid above.
Belay at the final single-bolt belay anchor of the "Gray Slabs." This bolt is easily backed up by a medium nut or finger-sized cam.
P7 4th/low 5th 100ft:
Scramble up and right along the ridge to the summit of Mount Ogden.
Descend via the walk-off trail to the saddle to the south. Continue along the ridge line trail and skirt the Needles on the right/west side to the Middle Bowl saddle. Follow the obvious trail back to the gondola.
Begin atop the scree/talus pile of the apron below the NE face (around the buttress right of the Gray Slabs). Start right of a large right-facing corner and left of a chossy-looking ramp that angles up and right.
P1 low 5th 80 ft:
Wander up for about 50 on beautiful polished, compact rock, picking the line of least resistance through terrain with spaced out protection. Angle up and right to the base of a left-angling ramp under an overhang. Switchback left up the ramp and belay at the apex of the ramp in a short right-facing corner on finger size gear. Check out the old bong piton while you're at it.
P2 5.8 130 ft:
An awesome pitch! Step left off the belay around the corner to good pro in a short crack. After this, head up and slightly left on super fun crimps, edges, and dishes. A few small pieces lead to a bolt, followed by a short right-facing flake/crack. From the crack, begin trending right to another bolt. Continue up and right to a bolt at the small overhang. Pull the overhang and head straight up to a 2-bolt anchor. Bring plenty of small gear.
P3 5.7 130 ft :
Reasonably fun climbing, but still pretty dirty. Head up the face aiming for the right side of a small tree. Past this tree, trend up and leftward, passing a small roof through its weakness on the right. Finish on a spacious ledge under the shade and security of a large evergreen and belay.
P4 5.7 60 ft:
Walk across the tree ledge and climb the short, clean face to the tree ledge just above. A portent of the equally good pitches above. Belay at a tree.
P5 5.7 150 ft:
From the P4 belay, move the belay across the ledge to the right about 50 feet, ending at the left-facing corner. A tree at the lip of the ledge provides a new anchor. Climb the slab above following the easiest moves on rock that yields easier climbing and better protection than it first appears (though pro is amply spaced at times).
As the climbing tapers, head up and right across a sloping ledge system (beware loose rock!) and belay at the base of a short left-facing corner system.
There is a dug-out placement in a low horizontal crack for a 0.75. The corner crack needs either a tipped out #3 or a #4; unfortunately, this is the only place a #4 is needed on the entire route.
P6 5.6 100ft:
Climb the short face immediately above the belay (no pro) to the ledge, then walk right across the ledge and step up to sink a bomber #2 camalot in a pod near a small grassy crack. Continue up the face aiming to finish just left of the apex of the pyramid above.
Belay at the final single-bolt belay anchor of the "Gray Slabs." This bolt is easily backed up by a medium nut or finger-sized cam.
P7 4th/low 5th 100ft:
Scramble up and right along the ridge to the summit of Mount Ogden.
Descend via the walk-off trail to the saddle to the south. Continue along the ridge line trail and skirt the Needles on the right/west side to the Middle Bowl saddle. Follow the obvious trail back to the gondola.
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