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Rock Climbing Photo: The Au Chaval
Id# 111956319, 800 x 601px View full size
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By Ian Dibbs
Aug 6, 2016
Good shot of what I thought was the "crux" of the entire route .... and challenging for the leader to protect well.
By Sean T.Bowen
From: New Boston,NH
Sep 30, 2016
It's not a bad move if your tall, I've never found any other protection other than the pin at the base, Mark Chauvin states "a way to protect" in the move. I have protected lower to the right with long runners (Psychological Pro) as it wouldn't help decking on the move, but might help the fall past the belay. If your leading remember your second (especially if they are new or short or both), possibly extending a sling once your established in the corner. Might help them avoid an epic, following the move! Doubles help of course, better to French free than spend the night on the ledge, as some have over the years!
It's really not that bad !
By brian9
Oct 1, 2016
I pulled that piton out with my fingers today. Just throw the rope into and over the lip of the flake in kind of a U shape.
By Sean T.Bowen
From: New Boston,NH
Oct 2, 2016
Does it look like a TCU/alien /off set cam or any other type of pro would go there? If not, it's such a critically old piece (I'm glad you removed it) but replacement may be needed as this pitch has seen epics of all sorts, the piece obviously couldn't keep you from falling off the move, but I've seen people not protect until then, so a fall factor 2 would be possible, a big one! Hope some one will consider bringing the old iron up!
By Michael Z.
Oct 3, 2016
I placed a .3 x4 next to the pin last time I climbed this as the pin was junk. It's probably better off now that it's gone as people would inevitably clip and trust it. With it gone I'd think there should be a good cam placement in its void. I breefly considered replacing it but if there is clean gear in its place, why? It's 2016 and cams are the bees knees, my vote is to leave the iron at home.
By Sean T.Bowen
From: New Boston,NH
Oct 3, 2016
I'm with you (2016) and all, the location has always needed a bit of gardening, the cam placement's were probably always there, and with the "Dangerously old" pin gone,this may open up more placements..."Leave the iron at home" my vote too!
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The Au Chaval

Submitted By: Sean T.Bowen on Jun 27, 2016
On this route:
Lakeview (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b )
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