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Tom D
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Jun 25, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 10
Hey all, I'm looking to step up my crack climbing game this season. Trying to break into leading hard 10's and easy 11's on gear. Been psyched on really clean crack climbs lately and with all of the climbs in the park, I'm wondering what your favorite splitter crack climbs are at that grade? Thanks!
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ClimbLikeAGirl
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Jun 26, 2016
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Keene Valley
· Joined Jun 2015
· Points: 15
+1 for the Web, that should be the obvious destination. Also check out: -Pinnacle Moutain in the Southern end of the park, I'd give route suggestions but just look for the stars. Everything is stellar there. -Lost T and Lost Hunter has Mean Sister, Father Know's Best, and Lost Hunter's Crack and some worthwhile others. -Silver Lake's Summit Cliff is stacked. Handlebarbarism and Green Mountain Boys would be just as well know as Tequilla Mockingbird if they were at the Beer Walls. Great Northern Diver is phenominal. Also to do are Hairy Upper Lip Drip, Finger Lock'n Good. -Center of Progress: Check out Tooth & Nail. They called it .10b, but I've heard a consensus somewhere around .10c/d -Hurricane Crag has My Generation (hard crack, but also has a cruxy friction move too), and if you're up there also do Forever Wild, so good!
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take TAKE
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Jun 26, 2016
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Tempe, AZ
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 186
Nobody's mentioned it and its not on MP but Catatonic is an absolute laser-cut from the looks of the Adirondack Rock photos. Shameless plug: I'm trying to go up in august and have a crack (haha) at it if anybody else is interested. 90 foot 5.11 splitter...
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ClimbLikeAGirl
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Jun 26, 2016
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Keene Valley
· Joined Jun 2015
· Points: 15
Daniel Affsprung wrote:Nobody's mentioned it and its not on MP but Catatonic is an absolute laser-cut from the looks of the Adirondack Rock photos. Shameless plug: I'm trying to go up in august and have a crack (haha) at it if anybody else is interested. 90 foot 5.11 splitter... Not quite in the grade range of the OP, but that thing looks super amazing. I'd be in for it!
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Chris Duca
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Jun 26, 2016
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Dixfield, ME
· Joined Dec 2006
· Points: 2,330
I've been on Catatonic, and I can assure you that thing is as good as it looks. Similar to Screaming Yellow Zonkers on the Kanc.
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Tom D
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Jun 26, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 10
Thanks everyone for the replies!! Seems there's more than enough mentioned to keep me busy for a while...
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take TAKE
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Jun 26, 2016
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Tempe, AZ
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 186
ClimbLikeAGirl wrote: Not quite in the grade range of the OP, but that thing looks super amazing. I'd be in for it! Oh true, 11d says FA Will Mayo. I'd still wanna try it, if anybodys got triples of .75 and 1's lying around
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Ward Smith
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Jun 26, 2016
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Wendell MA
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 295
I'm no Adirondacks expert, but Drop, Fly or Die is a classic long pitch, has Henry Barber FA history, a sew up, and is not too bad at 11a by comparison to other Adirondack routes.
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Jim Lawyer
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Jun 27, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 6,116
Recommended routes with good cracks in that grade: Beer Walls: Boiler Maker The Standard Neutron Brew Dark Horse Ail Pinnacle: What the Eft Black Lung Joy Crack Feeding the Rat Bent Hickory (crack in a corner) Release the Kraken Lost Hunter: Father Knows Best Lost Hunters Crack Lost T: Mean Sister Cat Mountain: Catatonic Spider's Web: On the Loose TR Romano's Route Dacker Cracker It's Only Entertainment Esthesia Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley Drop, Fly, or Die Pitchoff: Star Action Rock and Roll Star High Falls Crag: Route of Oppressive Power Bear Den: Gold Silver Bronze Polar Soldier Wall: Hard Headed Woman Out for the Boyz Deadwater: Tombstone Poke-O (Main Face and Upper Tier): Fastest Gun (P1,P2, P4) Dutch Masters Direct Fear of Gravity Phase III (5.9+++++) Southern Hospitality (some face too) It Don't Come Easy (P1, P3) Flash Flood Crane Mountain: Oddy's Crack of Horror Parallel Passage Gun Show Plumb Line Moss Cliff: Fear of Flying Falconer Aerie (P2) Hurricane Crag: Forever Wild My Generation (P1) Avalanche Lake: Sheer Failure Barkeater: Coy Dog Little Crow: Orange Crush Baldface: A Tough Act Silver Lake: C Chimney Cliff Jenga I See You Silver Lake: Summit Cliff Handlebarbarism Green Mountain Boys Great Northern Diver Hairy Upper Lip Drip Finger Lock'n Good Silver Lake: Center of Progress Connecticut Yankee (P1, P2) Rock Hangers
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