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Best splitter cracks in the ADK

Original Post
Tom D · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 10

Hey all,

I'm looking to step up my crack climbing game this season. Trying to break into leading hard 10's and easy 11's on gear. Been psyched on really clean crack climbs lately and with all of the climbs in the park, I'm wondering what your favorite splitter crack climbs are at that grade?

Thanks!

ClimbLikeAGirl · · Keene Valley · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 15

+1 for the Web, that should be the obvious destination.

Also check out:

-Pinnacle Moutain in the Southern end of the park, I'd give route suggestions but just look for the stars. Everything is stellar there.

-Lost T and Lost Hunter has Mean Sister, Father Know's Best, and Lost Hunter's Crack and some worthwhile others.

-Silver Lake's Summit Cliff is stacked. Handlebarbarism and Green Mountain Boys would be just as well know as Tequilla Mockingbird if they were at the Beer Walls. Great Northern Diver is phenominal. Also to do are Hairy Upper Lip Drip, Finger Lock'n Good.

-Center of Progress: Check out Tooth & Nail. They called it .10b, but I've heard a consensus somewhere around .10c/d

-Hurricane Crag has My Generation (hard crack, but also has a cruxy friction move too), and if you're up there also do Forever Wild, so good!

take TAKE · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 186

Nobody's mentioned it and its not on MP but Catatonic is an absolute laser-cut from the looks of the Adirondack Rock photos. Shameless plug: I'm trying to go up in august and have a crack (haha) at it if anybody else is interested. 90 foot 5.11 splitter...

ClimbLikeAGirl · · Keene Valley · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 15
Daniel Affsprung wrote:Nobody's mentioned it and its not on MP but Catatonic is an absolute laser-cut from the looks of the Adirondack Rock photos. Shameless plug: I'm trying to go up in august and have a crack (haha) at it if anybody else is interested. 90 foot 5.11 splitter...
Not quite in the grade range of the OP, but that thing looks super amazing. I'd be in for it!
Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

I've been on Catatonic, and I can assure you that thing is as good as it looks. Similar to Screaming Yellow Zonkers on the Kanc.

Tom D · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 10

Thanks everyone for the replies!!

Seems there's more than enough mentioned to keep me busy for a while...

take TAKE · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 186
ClimbLikeAGirl wrote: Not quite in the grade range of the OP, but that thing looks super amazing. I'd be in for it!
Oh true, 11d says FA Will Mayo. I'd still wanna try it, if anybodys got triples of .75 and 1's lying around
Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295

I'm no Adirondacks expert, but Drop, Fly or Die is a classic long pitch, has Henry Barber FA history, a sew up, and is not too bad at 11a by comparison to other Adirondack routes.

Jim Lawyer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 6,116

Recommended routes with good cracks in that grade:

Beer Walls:
Boiler Maker
The Standard
Neutron Brew
Dark Horse Ail

Pinnacle:
What the Eft
Black Lung
Joy Crack
Feeding the Rat
Bent Hickory (crack in a corner)
Release the Kraken

Lost Hunter:
Father Knows Best
Lost Hunters Crack

Lost T:
Mean Sister

Cat Mountain:
Catatonic

Spider's Web:
On the Loose
TR
Romano's Route
Dacker Cracker
It's Only Entertainment
Esthesia
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley
Drop, Fly, or Die

Pitchoff:
Star Action
Rock and Roll Star

High Falls Crag:
Route of Oppressive Power

Bear Den:
Gold
Silver
Bronze

Polar Soldier Wall:
Hard Headed Woman
Out for the Boyz

Deadwater:
Tombstone

Poke-O (Main Face and Upper Tier):
Fastest Gun (P1,P2, P4)
Dutch Masters Direct
Fear of Gravity
Phase III (5.9+++++)
Southern Hospitality (some face too)
It Don't Come Easy (P1, P3)
Flash Flood

Crane Mountain:
Oddy's Crack of Horror
Parallel Passage
Gun Show
Plumb Line

Moss Cliff:
Fear of Flying
Falconer
Aerie (P2)

Hurricane Crag:
Forever Wild
My Generation (P1)

Avalanche Lake:
Sheer Failure

Barkeater:
Coy Dog

Little Crow:
Orange Crush

Baldface:
A Tough Act

Silver Lake: C Chimney Cliff
Jenga
I See You

Silver Lake: Summit Cliff
Handlebarbarism
Green Mountain Boys
Great Northern Diver
Hairy Upper Lip Drip
Finger Lock'n Good

Silver Lake: Center of Progress
Connecticut Yankee (P1, P2)
Rock Hangers

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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