Bear creek spire conditions
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Heading up to Bear Creek Spire tonight. Wondering if the snow conditions would let me climb and decend the route after without crampons. |
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Bump. Heading up tonight. Trying to decide on snow boots and crampons or approach shoes a nut tool in each hand like mini ice axes. |
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I haven't been up there this year, but you can't go wrong with a pair of lightweight strap-ons, approach shoes and a light ax. |
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Hey Jon, post up what conditions you found out there when you get a chance. Appreciate it! |
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Definitely want pics of this mini ice axe action. |
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Hope your climb was great Jon. How were the conditions? |
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Okay...so we planned to do Bear Creek Spire, but there was a tremendous amount of snow as soon as you left the hiking trail and there's no way I could have gotten to the spire without snowshoes. So, we decided to get back in the car and drive to Tuolunme and do a quick free solo of Tenya Peak. |
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Lol. It looked like such a small amount, I had no idea it could have ended so violently. There is still a VW Bug sized piece up there waiting to fall on the next idiot to not listen to the "don't climb until the snow is gone" warning. But, 75% of it is gone, it fell on my head. |
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Bear Creek Spire on June 25
We and another party were on Petit Griffon, around the corner from BCS. Above photo taken on the approach. Lots of snow up above 9-10K, but well consolidated and firm especially in the morning. |
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Unfortunately I only brought some fiveten daecent shoes so there was no way I could get there. Next time I'll bring the crampons. |
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Umm, pretty sure the SuperTopo mentions snow slabs in the early season on Tenaya. |
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Damn! Glad you're not dead. Hope it wasn't too traumatic for Monika. |
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Yup, SuperTopo mentions the snow but I didn't need to read a book to see it. It was very obviously there. It just looked so small and I have 0% experience with snow. I had no idea that I could dislodge an entire snow bank by running on granite 500 ft below. Live and learn. |
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Alex, Monika held it together like a champ. We made it to the top and THEN we both experienced the repressed emotions of almost dying together. It's really nice to have a partner who knows when to hold their emotions together and get to the top. She had fun besides the avalanche. |
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Glad you are ok Jon. I did the route this morning with two partners as the first summit of a link-up. We started about 5:40 at the car, all soloed the route and were on the summit just over an hour later. No one else was on the route either before or after us that I could see. I saw the two ice patches and agree they looked small and pretty stable. I will say that at least before the release they were not on the typical route. After the approach we didn't touch any snow that I remember and I recall both patches being off left of the usual route. |
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We didn't even leave the parking lot until 10 this morning. Probably why the snow was so loose by then. I saw your chalk on the route at the top and was wondering who else was climbing it today! I'm glad you guys were okay too. |
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Holy shit Jon you crazy bastard. Don't you know to stay away from snow when I'm not around. Glad you and Monika are still alive. |
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I was going to post conditions but glad I read the entire thread. I'm not sure I understand why anyone would be interested in shortchanging themselves from an equipment point of view. Equipment is so light today, and considering that; I'd recommend some alpine boots, lightweight 10/12 point crampons and ice-axe for anyone venturing above 10K feet in these conditions. |
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Chris Owen wrote: Equipment is so light today, and considering that; I'd recommend some alpine boots, lightweight 10/12 point crampons and ice-axe for anyone venturing above 10K feet in these conditions.+1! |
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Hey Symon. Hope you're enjoying your trip in Peru! The only reason I was trying to do an alpine climb this weekend was to get myself ready for climbing Positive Vibrations with you when you get back. I've been feeling lazy and I needed some altitude climbing. I promise I won't be fucking around with snow again until you get back. |
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crazy, just crazy Jon. Glad you're OK. |