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Bear creek spire conditions

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Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

Heading up to Bear Creek Spire tonight. Wondering if the snow conditions would let me climb and decend the route after without crampons.

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

Bump. Heading up tonight. Trying to decide on snow boots and crampons or approach shoes a nut tool in each hand like mini ice axes.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I haven't been up there this year, but you can't go wrong with a pair of lightweight strap-ons, approach shoes and a light ax.

MacM · · Tucson/Preskitt, AZ · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 675

Hey Jon, post up what conditions you found out there when you get a chance. Appreciate it!

Alex Bury · · Ojai, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 2,376

Definitely want pics of this mini ice axe action.

Miguel D · · SLC · Joined May 2014 · Points: 544

Hope your climb was great Jon. How were the conditions?

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

Okay...so we planned to do Bear Creek Spire, but there was a tremendous amount of snow as soon as you left the hiking trail and there's no way I could have gotten to the spire without snowshoes. So, we decided to get back in the car and drive to Tuolunme and do a quick free solo of Tenya Peak.

There was snow on the route at about pitch 10 or so. My girlfriend and I decided to free solo the route anyway and just avoid the snow by going off route. We made it up about 8 pitches and then my girlfriend asked me if I thought I could actually run up the route and that she's like to see me do it. Being the cocky guy that I am, I started running as fast as I could up the 5.3 or 5.4 slab.

I heard a thundering sound overhead. I looked up and saw the whole snow bank flying through the air right towards me. Luckily my girlfriend was watching me from next to an overhang so she was able to protect herself from most of the ice blocks flying towards her head. I wasn't so lucky. I was in the middle of completely exposed slab with no where to go, so I put my head to the slab and my hands on top of my head to protect myself (my stupid decision to not wear a helmet...It's slab, what could happen right? Idiot.) I was hit over and over and over and over by bowling ball sized chunks of ice and snow as I waited for the avalanche to stop. Every time I was hit on the head I would yell, trying to stay conscious because every hit was almost knocking me out.

After the mayhem was over, I came out of it with a dislocated jaw, major pain all over my back, cuts all over the backs of my hands, a walnut sized lump on the back of my right hand. the force of the snow had also popped my water bladder in my backpack.

After I was able to control the adrenaline pumping through my veins, we then had to find a very very off route way to get to the top. The entire slab was now covered in water and we had to free solo up slick wet granite for another 3 pitches before we were above the remaining snow patch. All in all, my girlfriend and I were very very lucky to not die today. My jaw popped back into place a couple of hours later, but I still can't chew.

After we topped out we back country hiked until we reached Cathedral Lakes and walked the John Muir tail back to Tuolunme Meadows. I'm very happy to be alive today.

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

Lol. It looked like such a small amount, I had no idea it could have ended so violently. There is still a VW Bug sized piece up there waiting to fall on the next idiot to not listen to the "don't climb until the snow is gone" warning. But, 75% of it is gone, it fell on my head.

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,577
Bear Creek Spire on June 25

We and another party were on Petit Griffon, around the corner from BCS. Above photo taken on the approach. Lots of snow up above 9-10K, but well consolidated and firm especially in the morning.
Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

Unfortunately I only brought some fiveten daecent shoes so there was no way I could get there. Next time I'll bring the crampons.

Matt N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 415

Umm, pretty sure the SuperTopo mentions snow slabs in the early season on Tenaya.

Glad you guys didn't die though!

Alex Bury · · Ojai, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 2,376

Damn! Glad you're not dead. Hope it wasn't too traumatic for Monika.

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

Yup, SuperTopo mentions the snow but I didn't need to read a book to see it. It was very obviously there. It just looked so small and I have 0% experience with snow. I had no idea that I could dislodge an entire snow bank by running on granite 500 ft below. Live and learn.

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

Alex, Monika held it together like a champ. We made it to the top and THEN we both experienced the repressed emotions of almost dying together. It's really nice to have a partner who knows when to hold their emotions together and get to the top. She had fun besides the avalanche.

Karsten Duncan · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,571

Glad you are ok Jon. I did the route this morning with two partners as the first summit of a link-up. We started about 5:40 at the car, all soloed the route and were on the summit just over an hour later. No one else was on the route either before or after us that I could see. I saw the two ice patches and agree they looked small and pretty stable. I will say that at least before the release they were not on the typical route. After the approach we didn't touch any snow that I remember and I recall both patches being off left of the usual route.

Hopefully your injuries are just temporary and glad that this lesson didn't result in a worse outcome.

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

We didn't even leave the parking lot until 10 this morning. Probably why the snow was so loose by then. I saw your chalk on the route at the top and was wondering who else was climbing it today! I'm glad you guys were okay too.

Climbin Symon · · Ventura, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Holy shit Jon you crazy bastard. Don't you know to stay away from snow when I'm not around. Glad you and Monika are still alive.

Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 11,617

I was going to post conditions but glad I read the entire thread. I'm not sure I understand why anyone would be interested in shortchanging themselves from an equipment point of view. Equipment is so light today, and considering that; I'd recommend some alpine boots, lightweight 10/12 point crampons and ice-axe for anyone venturing above 10K feet in these conditions.

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,577
Chris Owen wrote: Equipment is so light today, and considering that; I'd recommend some alpine boots, lightweight 10/12 point crampons and ice-axe for anyone venturing above 10K feet in these conditions.
+1!
Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

Hey Symon. Hope you're enjoying your trip in Peru! The only reason I was trying to do an alpine climb this weekend was to get myself ready for climbing Positive Vibrations with you when you get back. I've been feeling lazy and I needed some altitude climbing. I promise I won't be fucking around with snow again until you get back.

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18

crazy, just crazy Jon. Glad you're OK.

Hey C Brooks - did you happen to booty a nut with yellow cord 30' up petit? Bailed off it a few weeks ago and it has sentimental value.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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