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Rock Climbing Photo: M.M. starting CA Flake
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By rgold
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Jul 3, 2016
Izzat big piece needed for this route?
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Jul 3, 2016
When we climbed it "yes" for P1 (that's Mark Meschinelli on the lead). There had been some talk of placing a bolt to protect the climbing just below the P1 belay, but I don't know if that's happened. (NY DEC [Dept of Envir. Protection, the "keeper" of the Adk Wilderness] and all, you know.) Maybe check with the guys at the Mountaineer (climbing shop in Keene Valley) or Ed Palen at Adirondack Rock and River (B&B) to see whether said bolt ever "appeared" on the route.

My recollection was that without the #5 Camalot it was pretty run-out 5.6-5.7 face up to the belay stance, but placing the #5 in a flake/crack next to it was helpful.

My recollection is Mark used it, then we just hung it from the P1 anchors and picked it up on the way down.
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Jul 5, 2016
rgold - not really. If you can stomach the ratty pitons below (the crux of the pitch), then you probably won't mind the run out to the anchor. And, no, there are presently no bolts on the first pitch.
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M.M. starting CA Flake

Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jun 22, 2016
On this route:
California Flake (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 )
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