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All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Otis Peak > Zowie > Magic in the Middle (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)
Magic in the Middle.
ID 111944747 · · Copyright Violation?
A route overlay of Zowie.
View from the summit.
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Ken Duncan
Jun 21, 2016
“Magic in the Middle.”  

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A route overlay of Zowie.
Magic in the Middle.
View from the summit.
The final pitch. The 5.8+ offwidth of the South Face route is on the left. The climber is leading the 5.8+ thin crack option.
The 5.8+ thin crack variation for the final pitch. Be careful about the block in the photo - it vibrates.
A hand crack in the 5.9 corner (second to last pitch).
This is the start for P4. Climb a short crack, negotiate the detached block, and pull the roof into the left-facing dihedral above. Climb up to the bottom of the next roof, and step right to fun face climbing on the arete then easier climbing above.
Just after the airy step into the hanging dihedral on P2. Super fun!
Kateri following the P3 traverse pitch through the white band. Photo from the belay we used. Reading more tips, it seems like we traversed too high. It was a bit exciting but does get you to a point where you can traverse to the arete.
The start of the fourth pitch. If you're unsure if you're at the belay ledge at the end of P3's traverse, keep going right. You'll come to an obvious grassy ledge that is not as sloping as several descriptions make it out to be.
Michael on the correct P3 traverse after I had down climbed quite a bit and found the correct traverse. Avoid climbing too high on P3 before heading right or you'll end up on rather blank rock. Fun route with beautiful position!
Brent enjoying the last couple moves to the top of Zowie.
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