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Triple Cracks Project
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British C1
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Merriam Peak
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Direct North Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Dr. Bear Love Project T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C1 |
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Flying Buttress, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Foundation Crack, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gargoyle T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Royce Falls WI3 |
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Triple Cracks Project T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | TBD |
| Page Views: | 2,603 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Stefurak on Jul 11, 2012 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
The point of this route addition is to give some people a bit more psyche and information. All climbing was done on TR so I know it doesn't "count" for anything.
I lowered in 60+ meters from the summit ridge and was able to climb two of the three cracks. The only problem is that the sections, while sightly overlapping, would seem very hard to connect.
Link 1. From a ledge midway up the right crack, below an obvious black knob, climb the splitter crack until the angle steeps 5.10+. As the crack joggs to the right the difficulty increases quickly to the 5.11/11+ range. Once over the steep section make your way left to the middle crack.
Link 2. From the middle of steep section climb the middle crack with initial difficulties in the 5.11 range. Shortly the crack goes back to vertical and you will enjoy splitter 5.10 jamming. Occasional face holds appear to ease the sustained nature of this section. Eventually the crack runs out and you must work up various blocks and cracks to the summit ridge.
Our thought was to approach via a crack on the right side of the lower headwall. Next you would need to aid across the roofs, possibly on bolts to access the bottom section of the triple cracks.
The right crack is the best at the bottom and then the middle crack becomes climbable. Both cracks are in the 5.11 or above range in the steep section of the headwall due to their flaring nature.
I lowered in 60+ meters from the summit ridge and was able to climb two of the three cracks. The only problem is that the sections, while sightly overlapping, would seem very hard to connect.
Link 1. From a ledge midway up the right crack, below an obvious black knob, climb the splitter crack until the angle steeps 5.10+. As the crack joggs to the right the difficulty increases quickly to the 5.11/11+ range. Once over the steep section make your way left to the middle crack.
Link 2. From the middle of steep section climb the middle crack with initial difficulties in the 5.11 range. Shortly the crack goes back to vertical and you will enjoy splitter 5.10 jamming. Occasional face holds appear to ease the sustained nature of this section. Eventually the crack runs out and you must work up various blocks and cracks to the summit ridge.
Our thought was to approach via a crack on the right side of the lower headwall. Next you would need to aid across the roofs, possibly on bolts to access the bottom section of the triple cracks.
The right crack is the best at the bottom and then the middle crack becomes climbable. Both cracks are in the 5.11 or above range in the steep section of the headwall due to their flaring nature.
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