Miscommunications While Climbing - Ways To [NOT] Be A Great Partner

Classic near-miss recovery overheard at Tahquitz...
It was a busy early Saturday morning on the left side of the west face...

Overheard:

Leader: ROCK!
Belayer: OFF BELAY...
Leader: NO!!! I SAID ROCK!!!

Apparently the leader had dropped a carabiner, but that verbal transaction was quickly misunderstood. Luckily, the belayer figured it out and put the leader back on belay...

Come on people get it together out there on the rocks! Don't be another statistic. Climbing can be safe!!! Use your head and make better judgements. Think twice...think four times at that.

When it's busy on the cliff and everyone is yelling all sorts of stuff to each other, try to coordinate better with YOUR partner(s). Say your partner's name in addition to yelling a command. Add a series of rapid rope tugs in additions to your verbiage. Be more present in your surroundings and stay better connected with your partner(s). Sound different than the other parties around you, and figure that out BEFORE you start up! Belayer, ask yourself...how long has the leader stopped moving up? Did they place a protection piece, or was it a little longer and they set up the belay anchor? Find your own ways to communicate this better! Maybe it doesn't even have to be yelling. Maybe you need walkie-talkies...whatever works best for you. Nobody ever complains about the silent/quiet climbers at the crag!

THINK MORE AND THINK OFTEN!

Here's more to ponder for newer climbers (all climbers)...
Never done the route before? Take however long you need, standing at the base looking at your guidebook topos, looking at the route. Figure out the route; where does it go...where will we set belays? How much rope is left at the belay...what does 50 feet or whatever length of remaining rope look like?

This incident took place on a relatively short pitch. Obviously, the longer the pitch, wind, loud water, loud climbers nearby, rope drag...the more challenging the communications become. What will you do differently???

Make a plan BEFORE you start! Of course shit can happen; things can go wrong. This is a more extreme "edge of life" activity for most humans. Ask yourself this...Do you know what to do when the shit hits the fan? Can you rescue your partner if they get hurt? No? ...maybe you shouldn't be climbing in the first place? Always continue to learn more skills! Take a legit AMGA or comparable course in multi-pitch leading and self-rescue.

Again, just be MORE aware! What a classic blunder that is easily laughable, but nobody at the cliff would be laughing if the event went a different way.

Have fun climbing!

my first time doing multi pitch I was trading leads with a new partner, very limited communication. He had a habit of yanking on the rope when he was clipping. well, when he was linking P4 and P5 he yanked on the rope so I threw him two lengths of rope, but then I noticed the rope was still pulling and quickly activated the brake...he eventually started to lower but came up short so I went off belay and he rappelled down to me. He was in bad shape with a busted ankle and nasty ropeburn wrapping around the entire opposing arm. We bailed and and hiked out as quickly as possible and I came back the next day and retrieved my gear.

he said he took a 20 meter fall.

• shrug* this is why I rope solo.

This is a really great topic. The rope tugging can be hard on long pitches with lots of rope drag.... but it is necessary because voice communication might not be an option.

Bump.
Because this topic is always a good reminder no matter how long you've been playing the game.

dont use a rope ...

problem solved ...

thats all there is to it ...

;)