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Shady Crags at The Red

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Chris Massey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 5

Heading to The Red this weekend for a few days and man it looks hot and humid. I would appreciate any recommendations for crags that stay shady and out of the sun. I know the guidebook has some beta on that was well, but welcome any recommendations from those in the know. Thanks.

Brian L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 90

Trad? Sport? What grades?

Chris Massey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 5

Will have a rack, but probably climbing mostly sport. Wide range of climbers, but generally looking for 5.9 thru easier 5.12s. Thanks.

Eric Carlos · · Soddy Daisy, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 121

The guidebook gives really good topos that show clifflines and sun/shade exposure. Or hit me up at Miguel's tonigjht or in the morning and we can discuss in person.

Mason Roberts · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 197
Eric Carlos wrote:The guidebook gives really good topos that show clifflines and sun/shade exposure. Or hit me up at Miguel's tonigjht or in the morning and we can discuss in person.
Yup, the guidebook is going to be your best bet, but I remember Military, Emerald City, Dip, and Phantasia being pretty well in the trees and all have moderate to easy stuff on them. Dip and Emerald have good first trad leads on them too.
Brian L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 90

Just keep in mind 9B is closed, so it's a long road hike to Dip Wall trailhead (few miles IIRC). Or bring a bike.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Great Wall in Muir is pretty shady...fing cold last time I was there in Nov.

Eric Carlos · · Soddy Daisy, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 121
Ted Pinson wrote:Great Wall in Muir is pretty shady...fing cold last time I was there in Nov.
Shady in the morning sunny in the afternoon.
Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 86

Sunnyside in Muir. Not really sunny at all. Exact range of climbs you are looking for. Also good in the rain.

DrRockso RRG · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 815

Emerald City being described as a 'Shady Crag'? That's a new one to me! Deep End at Miller Fork is perma shady and has good routes in the 5 10-5.12 range. Shawnee Shelter is shady as well. In general most walls are shady at some point in the day.

Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 86

It faces north/northwest. It gets some sun really late in the day. Just spent an entire hot and humid day there.

Cocoapuffs 1000 · · Columbus, OH · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 50

Emerald city might be one of the worst choices at the Red when it's hot out. It faces south, bakes in the sun, and most of the routes rise above the trees. I've been there when it's in the low sixties and I thought it was too hot to climb there. The Zoo is pretty shady, on the other hand.

jonathan.lipkin · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 70

I was at the zoo yesterday and it was nice. This morning we were at the great wall, also good. Roadside is shady in the morning. At PMRP we went to the courtusey wall and then the gallery in the afternoon. Both shady with good climbing.

Eric LaRoche · · West Swanzey, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25

The Boneyard in Muir is shaded by noon and has some good routes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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