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Lead Line Size for Big Walls

Original Post
Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260

What is the general consensus on lead line size for big walls and/or soloing? 10.1? 10.5? 11?

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

I don't use a rope bigger than 10 for anything anymore. I do tend to use a cheaper rope for aid/walls since it does wear faster with the jugging etc...but I don't use a thicker rope.

Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260
csproul wrote:I don't use a rope bigger than 10 for anything anymore. I do tend to use a cheaper rope for aid/walls since it does wear faster with the jugging etc...but I don't use a thicker rope.
I have a 10.1 Sterling Marathon Pro (70m) for lead and an 9.5 sterling super static 2 (200').

Good?
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Sounds good to me.

I've been using a 9.8 lead line and a 9.5 static haul line.

Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260
csproul wrote:Sounds good to me.
Sweet. Gracias señor.
John McNamee · · Littleton, CO · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 1,690

I like a little fatter in the 10.5 range and good quality ropes.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Chris Mac over on supertopo seems to recommend 8.5 static for normal valley walls if you aren't taking the kitchen sink.

EDIT: sorry brain must have been out to lunch - I read that as haul line, not lead line. I solo on a 9.5 lead because I have a real problem carrying everything to the base due to old knees. If with a partner something nice and fat she/he can carry.

Kauait · · West is the best. · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

11mm Lead line.
I like the fat line for piece of mind.
It is your life line, what's a mm or 2
When your high on a wall with a ton of gear anyway! My 2c, but I solo more than not so that plays into it as well.

Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260
Kauait wrote:11mm Lead line. I like the fat line for piece of mind. It is your life line, what's a mm or 2 When your high on a wall with a ton of gear anyway! My 2c, but I solo more than not so that plays into it as well.
I tend to favor your line of thinking. What 11 do you use/like?
Kauait · · West is the best. · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Right now I'm regularly handling a Sterling.
Mainly cause I like supporting my long time friend and stand up individual!! Scott at I.M.E and it's a great rope.
But there is alot of good lines out there.
I tend to like a thicker sheath. Makes it last it bit longer with all the work it gets on walls with ascenders and edges etc. But if the route has alot of free and I'm soloing I like a bit more flexibility,
(Less sheath=more flex) it runs though my devices better. modified grigri or silent partner. And if theirs more free than aid, I'll bump it down to a 10.2 Mammut that has a nice weave that is tight but has great flex.

JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

9.5 mammut infinity. Light, handles nice, lots of sheath mass

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

I have a 65m 11mm Yates Wall Rope, used once, never fallen on, for sale, if anyone wants it.

I'll let it go for $100, not including shipping.

Moof · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 25

10.2-10.5 mm.

Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260

Sent you a PM Mark. Thanks.

JPVallone · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 195

Beal Opera. Skinniest single rated rope on the market at 8.5 especially on hard nailing routes where all the extra iron is bogging you down. Plus the clips are not as pumpy when pulling up rope and standing in my aiders at the same time.

Weight is everything on a wall, I like the way my Jumars rotate around the line on the 8.5. Super easy to slide, plus it keeps it spicy.

gjmike · · grand junction · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 5
JPVallone wrote: I like the way my Jumars
Yer gonna die. Everybody knows Jumars can fail. Use prusiks.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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