Oregon Summer Climbing

I'm looking for some advice on the best places to go for trad or sport in the beginning of July. I'll be on a road trip and in south-central Oregon.

I'm thinking of stopping by Smith -- what areas in Smith are best for hot weather cragging?

Thanks so much!

(edited for more clarity.)

Huh? English please. Are you asking about Smith, or ??¿¿

Yes, I'm interested in advice on Smith. But suggestions for other areas would also be great.

Thanks,

If you are set on Smith, or for that matter the west coast, check the weather
climbingweather.com/Oregon/…
this is the best climbing weather i know.
You can chase shade at Smith; i have climbed there in 100º, BUT, get up early, 4a.m., be on the rock by 5ish, you will be done by noon. There will probably be people around to show you lines, get a guide book if you don't have. Go to Redpoint Climbing (right there in Terrabonne) and ask for directions to Rainbow Falls.
This is if you want to climb in the HOT!
Forget Trout Creek, too hot/exposed. I am sure there are more knowledgeable people about the area, but the long and short is, it is hot from Squamish to Mexico west of the Rockies. Welcome to the new weird normal.

It will be HOT out at Smith, definitely chase the shade. Climb on the west side crags before noon, retreat somewhere, climb on the east side late afternoon/evening. Or forget all that and climb on the north-facing basalt rimrock, that's probably your best bet.

Michael Swanson wrote:It will be HOT out at Smith, definitely chase the shade. Climb on the west side crags before noon, retreat somewhere, climb on the east side late afternoon/evening. Or forget all that and climb on the north-facing basalt rimrock, that's probably your best bet.

Muscrat wrote: Also don't forget it's full moon, great fun on the easier routes (w/headlamp). Super slab is fun by the moon, etc.

Hi guys,

I will be visiting Smith rock in early August and will be doing easy routes. Anyone have recommendations for 5.5-5.10 sport routes for morning,afternoon and evening climbs?

As others have said, Central Oregon is generally a bad idea during the summer. Closer to the valley/MT Hood there's a few options that arent terrible. TLC on the east side of hood is a decent option. Cant seem to find info on here. LINK

I'm looking at photos and videos of sports routes at smith rock, do many off them already have permadraws at anchor??

Hi there. Others have pretty much said it all. If I was on a road trip and had the flexibility to be anywhere on the west coast smith would definitely not be the place I'd go right now. That being said I've just finished a climbing road trip and am here now in bend planning on climbing at smith and making the most out of these scorching conditions. If you do come out and want a partner for some pre sunrise starts hit me up!

Hey David,

I will be there on Aug 1st. Although everyone advised against it, I'll be there either way since I'm going to visit a friend. Hit us up if you're still around in August!

Muscrat wrote:If you are set on Smith, or for that matter the west coast, check the weather climbingweather.com/Oregon/… this is the best climbing weather i know. You can chase shade at Smith; i have climbed there in 100º, BUT, get up early, 4a.m., be on the rock by 5ish, you will be done by noon. There will probably be people around to show you lines, get a guide book if you don't have. Go to Redpoint Climbing (right there in Terrabonne) and ask for directions to Rainbow Falls. This is if you want to climb in the HOT! Forget Trout Creek, too hot/exposed. I am sure there are more knowledgeable people about the area, but the long and short is, it is hot from Squamish to Mexico west of the Rockies. Welcome to the new weird normal.

Monika K wrote: Muscrat what is the best guidebook for Smith?

If you're heading towards Portland the crag called "Ozone" is pretty shaded. Half hour drive from Portland (crag is across the river in Washington).

Is TLC closed? A couple friends and I will be in the Mt. Hood area for a few days next week (June 12-15). Any suggestions for the best place for day cragging (sport or trad)?

Oregon is the most climbing poor of the states this side of the rockies. I highly suggest looking elsewhere if this is a climbing trip.

(I may be in Westfir next week though, which has a good crag by Oregon standards. PM if keen)

Doug Lintz wrote:Is TLC closed? A couple friends and I will be in the Mt. Hood area for a few days next week (June 12-15). Any suggestions for the best place for day cragging (sport or trad)?