Front range couloir and snow climbing conditions?

Yesterday (Wed, May 26, 2016) the conditions on Dragon's Tail were great. There were only a couple of patches where the snow was icy. No flotation needed for getting in or out.

McHenrys Notch is a really great time. The solitude gorge is extremely beautiful and has a quite the remote feel. It is in great shape. Skied it Saturday

Climbing up firm, nice snow.

Steep entrance.

After having a completely full May of work travel and family visitors on my weekends, I'm reallllly itching to get out this Sunday and climb/ride something.

Dragon's Tail and Dead Dog have been on my list for a long time, but I'm really open to suggestions and less popular routes. I'd love to ski the Tuning Fork on Torrey's from the summit one time (came close last year, but not enough snow).

I recall there was a 2015/16 Colorado Snow Climbs condition thread at one point (not to unlike the Ice Conditions thread), but I can't find it.

Tony T. wrote:After having a completely full May of work travel and family visitors on my weekends, I'm reallllly itching to get out this Sunday and climb/ride something. Dragon's Tail and Dead Dog have been on my list for a long time, but I'm really open to suggestions and less popular routes. I'd love to ski the Tuning Fork on Torrey's from the summit one time (came close last year, but not enough snow). I recall there was a 2015/16 Colorado Snow Climbs condition thread at one point (not to unlike the Ice Conditions thread), but I can't find it.

See mountainproject.com/v/drago…
However, the overnight temp forecasts that I have seen for RMNP have been in the mid to high 30s since Monday night.

James Kersey wrote: See mountainproject.com/v/drago… However, the overnight temp forecasts that I have seen for RMNP have been in the mid to high 30s since Monday night.

Derp, thanks!

Sounds like it's getting a bit warm at night to get good firm steps in the morning, eh? Not sure what the wet-slide activity has been like up there, but it sounds like you had a good day a couple days ago?

Tony T. wrote: Derp, thanks! Sounds like it's getting a bit warm at night to get good firm steps in the morning, eh? Not sure what the wet-slide activity has been like up there, but it sounds like you had a good day a couple days ago?

Based on NWS, we were 30-31 overnight from Friday through Monday night. After that they've been up at 35-38 from what I've seen. I suspect things are going to be pretty non-ideal this weekend on Dragon's Tail/Tooth.

How are things looking now? Have you guys seen anything that looks like it might hold snow/AI through the end of the month?

My buddy Eric and I climbed Dreamweaver on Sunday. It was in good shape despite the warm temps. The first two steps were mostly rock and the last three had short ice sections. The snow on the route had good steps from all the traffic on Sat and the party of 7 that was in front of us. They were halfway up the route at 4:30. Don't know how long the route will stick around with this even warmer weather.

Dominic and Eric, pm me if you'd like a couple of pics I took of you guys.

Pacific peak north couloir has been known to turn to Alpine ice in early July.

Mark Ra wrote:How are things looking now? Have you guys seen anything that looks like it might hold snow/AI through the end of the month?

If I had to guess, this heat wave will take out most of the early/mid season routes, but you'll be left with plenty. In RMNP alone, my guess is you'll still be able to climb:
Lambs Slide
Powell North Face Snowfields
Taylor Glacier
Ptarmigan Fingers (East, Hourglass, West Couloir)
Y Couloir on Ypsilon

Climbed Hourglass Couloir on Arrowhead last Sunday. I posted some beta on the route page. Sections were melting fast, but it is probably climbable for another week or two, but likely transitioning to more mixed climbing than ice.

Jonathan Stickel wrote:Climbed Hourglass Couloir on Arrowhead last Sunday. I posted some beta on the route page. Sections were melting fast, but it is probably climbable for another week or two, but likely transitioning to more mixed climbing than ice.

Thanks for the info! To clarify, since there are way too many Hourglass Couloirs, my post was referring to the one north of Flattop. I believe this set of three (East, Hourglass, West), tend to last through the summer.

^ plenty of ppl have skied it - it gets a good bit of traffic. I skied it on 6/5. It was filled in until 30 or so ft from the top. Second choke is getting narrow, with a bit of water ice on the climbers right side. Small runnel developing low in the couloir. Lots of avi debris. No deep freeze, but steps were possible with only occasional post-holing into isothermic unsupportable snow. It warmed quickly when the sun hit it (around 10am), and became slushy fast. Apron was a slushy mess by the time we skied it. With all that, it was still skied decently.

Is Martha pretty much gone now? was hoping to get on it in the next week or so.....

Seth

seth0687 wrote:Is Martha pretty much gone now? was hoping to get on it in the next week or so..... Seth

Here's 2 pictures from the bottom portion last Saturday:

Rock steps of the 1st constriction:
Steps of the 1st constriction.

Snow slope above the rock steps:
2nd pitch.

We were up there later than intended (those were taken about 8am) and the snow was rotten and slushy; decent to kick steps into but doubtful we would have been able to arrest if we slid. We bailed and down-climbed shortly after the 2nd picture was taken.

There was a pair of climbers above us that must have had better snow since they didn't leave steps that we could see. But the amount of snow melt between Memorial Day weekend and last weekend was rather dramatic; we were hoping to find more snow/ice than we did last week.

Thanks man!

I've been wanting to get on some 'introductory' snow climbs/couloirs in the Front Range...any thoughts on where to head? Thanks!

Anyone have info on the Trough on Longs?

I took a few photos on my hike yesterday. Hope they help.

Meeker zoomed in view

Longs views

Ypsilon zoomed in views

Dan Vinson wrote:I've been wanting to get on some 'introductory' snow climbs/couloirs in the Front Range...any thoughts on where to head? Thanks!

Dan a lot of these listed in the thread would be appropriate, just do a little digging in the route guide. Andrews or dragons tail then Taylor glacier, a definite step up from the former, may be a good place to get comfortable traveling on snow.

We will see what survives the heat wave though.

Has anyone seen the cross on Holy Cross recently?