Front range couloir and snow climbing conditions?

I am going to be in Colorado next week and am looking to get some snow climbs in, but I was wondering about conditions. I know there has been a ton of snow up there this year. I listed a few routes I was looking at, but I am very open to other routes if anyone has any recommendations. I am probably most interested in Dreamweaver and Martha of the ones I listed.

A few I have been looking at: Dreamweaver, Martha, Dragon's Tail Couloir, and
Dead Dog Couloir

Climbed Dragon's Tooth (climber's left of Dragon's Tail) on Saturday before the storms came through. Snow was a bit soft down low but not terrible. This was not surprising as it stayed above freezing the night before and there was a lot of cloud cover. The crux step had quite a bit of snow and wasn't too bad to get up and over by climbing the steep snow ramp that forms on climber's left.

Both Dragon's Tooth and Dragon's Tail had wet slides around the middle of last week (5/4 or 5/5).

I have some pics if you want them, though we were climbing in the clouds the whole time so visibility was...poor...

I might be hitting Dreamweaver this weekend and can post another update if I do.

Thanks for the info James. It is really helpful. Definitely let me know if you head up to Dreamweaver.

Hoping to get up high and survey the situation next week!

I'm taking a stab on Martha's the 20th...

Snow was great on Dreamweaver. Three parties (including us) were on it today.
It was my first time on it so I can't speak to the condition of the cruxes compared to "normal". I thought the hardest crux was just before the window/pass through for the flying buttress.

From afar, Martha's appeared to have continuous coverage. Couldn't tell if ice had formed. I'll get some pictures up tomorrow

Dreamweaver:

Conditions lower down:

IMO Dreamweaver is in the best condition when the snow is styrofoam and there is ice in the upper half

Thanks for the pictures and the update! I am hoping to give it a go next Sunday. I will give a conditions update if I do for anyone wanting to climb it.

Also, I just got word that dead dog on torrys is really nice right now if anyone is looking for something less technical. Just thought I would mention it.

Martha's was super fun early Sunday morning. Constrictions had lots of ice - AI2-3. Upper constriction required a few [easy] mixed moves at the top out.

The Dutchman and Lamb's Slide also looked to be in good condition for a snow climb.

Best,

Scott Crowl
Taos, NM

Thanks Scott!

ScottC wrote:Martha's was super fun early Sunday morning. Constrictions had lots of ice - AI2-3. Upper constriction required a few [easy] mixed moves at the top out. The Dutchman and Lamb's Slide also looked to be in good condition for a snow climb. Best, Scott Crowl Taos, NM

Cristo Couloir (Quandary) was in great conditions Saturday morning.

We then traversed the ridge to Fletcher -- very spicy, very exposed scrambling using crampons and ice axe. Kinda wished I had a second tool. The few mixed down-climbing moves were exhilarating. Snowshoes were not needed for the hike back.

FYI, it sounds like RMNP is getting dumped on right now, so all these conditions reports may be completely invalid in a day or two.

East Ridge of Bancroft makes a nice pre-work climb. No ropes needed for the rap due to high snow

Interesting to hear that you were able to downclimb into the notch on Bancroft. Did you descend the plumb rappel line, or skirt to skier's left or skier's right?

I wish I had brought my skis with me when I did it last month. Would have shaved 2-3 hours off the day easily.

For those of you who have been up to Chasm Lake recently, how were the conditions going in? What would you recommend for travel? I'm thinking of doing Dreamweaver next week and looking for a little beta. Thanks!

Sarah K wrote:For those of you who have been up to Chasm Lake recently, how were the conditions going in? What would you recommend for travel? I'm thinking of doing Dreamweaver next week and looking for a little beta. Thanks!

To avoid starting a new thread, what would be recommendations to keep an eye on for some snow, ice, mixed that may be in shape at the end of June.

I have looked at Dreamweaver, Martha, Flying Dutchman, Notch Couloir, Kiener's, Dragons Tail / Tooth, McHenrys Notch Couloir.

Any I should just expect to be in or out, other recommendations?

I climbed dreamweaver on Sunday and I am guessing it should still be good for weeks to come. Ice is just now starting to form. I will try to post a picture of the route later. There is still a ton of snow up there.

As far as the other routes you mentioned go there appeared to be a ton of snow in the notch coulior. Although, who knows what it will be like in a few weeks. I can also tell you that Martha appeared to already have patches of no snow or ice. I think it will just be a nasty melted out rock scramble/climb come late June. I hope this helps a little.

Thanks everyone for all the conditions updates over the past two weeks!

Thomas, I can't speak to any of the other routes but early July 2015, Kiener's was in great shape. I hear there's a window of a few weeks, usually around that time of year, where Lambs Slide hasn't yet turned to ice, Broadway is fully melted out, and the 3rd-5th class rock above is almost completely dry. That was the condition I found it in, and it was super fun, though maybe not what you're looking for if you also want ice and mixed climbing.