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Bullit - 2nd Alternate Slab Start
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face
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"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Bullit - 2nd Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Electrician’s Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Medussa (1st alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Steve's Twilight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | P1- Unknown P2- Todd Swain & Rich Couchon, with Pete Coren 1976 |
| Page Views: | 969 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Nov 8, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Jon Sykes' "The Notches" gives this alternate a 5.8..... You decide ! (and we'll change it if enough override the 5.9)
START: On a slab, with bolts, which is about 200 ft right of the South (Left) Descent Gully, and about 50ft right of "Unknown #1 - 3 bolts on a slab". Above the correct starting slab should be the obvious "Bullit" Overhang. (see photo-s)
...and, yes, I do know that the projectile portion of ammunition is a "bullet", but Bullit is how Ed spelled the name. Perhaps one needs to "Bull" "it"...maybe to start P2 !?
P1 - Climb up the slab. Bolts are widely, but reasonably spaced (PG-13). At the top of the slab make great protected moves up and slightly right to the fixed belay at the far left of the "Bullit" overhang. 100+/- feet 5.8+ / 5.9-
NOTE: Dhane Knakkergaar Comments (2018): "There's a very creaky flake before you clip the first bolt. Don't pull to hard!" (I don't remember this being the case when I did it a feew years ago, R Hall)
P2 - Step left and climb the crack in the left end of the OH (rated 5.6 [?]), continue up the crack and then slightly left on slab to a gear belay (0.75,green to #2, gold, Camalot-sized).
130 +/- ft 5.6 - 5.7
P3 - Scramble left. 30-40 ft
START: On a slab, with bolts, which is about 200 ft right of the South (Left) Descent Gully, and about 50ft right of "Unknown #1 - 3 bolts on a slab". Above the correct starting slab should be the obvious "Bullit" Overhang. (see photo-s)
...and, yes, I do know that the projectile portion of ammunition is a "bullet", but Bullit is how Ed spelled the name. Perhaps one needs to "Bull" "it"...maybe to start P2 !?
P1 - Climb up the slab. Bolts are widely, but reasonably spaced (PG-13). At the top of the slab make great protected moves up and slightly right to the fixed belay at the far left of the "Bullit" overhang. 100+/- feet 5.8+ / 5.9-
NOTE: Dhane Knakkergaar Comments (2018): "There's a very creaky flake before you clip the first bolt. Don't pull to hard!" (I don't remember this being the case when I did it a feew years ago, R Hall)
P2 - Step left and climb the crack in the left end of the OH (rated 5.6 [?]), continue up the crack and then slightly left on slab to a gear belay (0.75,green to #2, gold, Camalot-sized).
130 +/- ft 5.6 - 5.7
P3 - Scramble left. 30-40 ft
4 Comments