Five Ten Verdon VCS

FYI, REI is selling these now, in stores not just online, so they've gone from "never even seen one" to "super widely available"

Edit:
Tried some on today and disappointed to find there's no way they'll work for me. The bagginess in the forefoot is far from just aesthetic. Sized down to where the length of the shoe is snug against my big toe, there is basically no contact between the inside of the shoe and the top of my foot, or my little toes. Heel fit seemed nice and snug, but the forefoot is basically a cavern. I expect the lace version is better in this regard, and I'll definitely try it on if I ever see one.

For reference, I generally wear a US 11 street shoe with room in the toes. Sportiva shoes 41.5-43 (depending on the model) fit me well, and I've yet to encounter a Five Ten shoe that fits.

Size comparison of Five Ten Shoes. Anasazi mocs size 11; Verdon lace 11.5; Team black 12; Anasazi pinks 12.

As you can see, the verdon lace is the largest shoe, the teams are the smallest. not sure exactly why but maybe this will help people decide their size five ten shoes.

Hey all! Hoping someone here could offer some insight on how these shoes should fit!

My street shoe size is ~11.5, second toes are about the same length as big toes, and my feet are pretty wide from the front of the ankle forward.

I've been trying the 10.5 Verdons and they feel pretty good! Big toe lies relatively flat, just a slight curl, while the rest of my toes are quite curled unless I flex my foot downward. Heel also doesn't feel extremely tight in the shoe, but definitely pretty secure.

Does this sound like a proper fit on these guys? Any other shoes you would recommend trying? Any advice would be very much appreciated! Trying to find a pair of shoes that work for me.

To revive this thread a bit, people who have pinks in their street shoe size, how's the fit?

I'm a 10 in the pinkies (sized for multipitch, not crazy 5.12 and above edging). 9 in the Verdons gets me more edging fit than that 10 in the pinkies.

Here is my quiver,

From right to left,
Altra Lone Peak 2.0 size 11 (I am 10.5 in all other shoes)
Verdon VCS size 10, I sized them for multi-pitch, since down tight for the crux, keep loose for everything else
Verdon Lace size 9.5, for performance edging
Anasazi VCS size 9, comfortable for cracks
Solution size 39.5, super steep stuff and bouldering, probably did not need to size so small.

I have been AMAZED by the Verdon, I just sent Darkness at Noon (my first 13a) using the Verdon lace and the foot holds always felt SOLID! Not to mention the fact that my feet are soooooooo comfy in them. I honestly do no see myself climbing in much else other than the two pairs of Verdon since they will perform so well on such a variety of terrain.

Hey, Stealthy. Sorry to hi-jack the thread, but do you know if there are any plans on the horizon for Five Ten to bring back SuperMoccs or Copperheads? Rock n Resole just informed me that they rebuild a regular Mocassym into a Supermocc for $155 or something like that. So that's on top of the cost of the regular mocc! There are people out there willing to pay for SuperMoccs, it's a shame they discontinued that shoe.

hey Doligo, to answer your question, there are no plans to resurrect either of those styles.

if i were to guess the feature you're seeking is rubber on top? i ask because thats the only common denominator between the supermocc and the copperhead...well that and the fact they are both unlined leather.

if you're wanting rubber up top, the best bet and most cost effective is to pick up "stealth paint" and paint on some stealth rubber to the top of your moccs, or any other shoe for that matter.

if you're looking for the same sensitivity as the supermocc, look into the "team vxi" in a comfy size. the unlined clarino synthetic upper does stretch, but not as much as unlined leather. though the shape is quite asymmetric, the rubber s superior to what was used on the supermocc in terms of durability... these have some rubber on the toes, and if they fit your foot well, do great on cracks ( my opinion based on the fit that works for me, and climbing at Index, wa. YMMV.

if the stiffness of the copperhead and added protection the rubber on top provided as well as the closure system adjustability is what youre seeking, then recall the copperhead had stiff onyxx rubber, providing great edging. maybe the stonelands, or Verdon, or anasazi wit the stealth paint would give you that edging ability and crack performance/protection you're looking for?

hope that helps, and do keep an eye out for a new shoe from us soon that will excel at cracks, face, and do well for long hard routes.

kevin

Hi, Kevin. Thank you for your thorough reply. I will check out Teams - is the sizing pretty similar to Anasazi VS?

Ideally, for a desert crack shoe I would like to see a Supermocc like unlined leather soft slipper with more rubber to cover the toes on top as on Copperheads and more relaxed boxier toe-box so all toes are flat. I would also like to see not a very aggressive heel. My issue with Five Ten shoes is too aggressive heels, so if I want all my toes completely flat, I end up with too much room back in the heel, which makes the shoe too sloppy for any sort of face climbing. Looks like Verdons have a roomier toe-box compared to Anasazi, am I correct? I love the Anasazi VS, but my little and ring toe end up too scrunched for any sustained jamming. It's not much of an issue for granite, where you could smear or find an occasional facehold, but it's sort of a dealbreaker on sandstone splitters. Thanks again and am looking forward to the new shoe!

I noticed Cedar Wright had a custom pair of anasazi vcs's which a big patch of toe rubber, it look really cool perfect for cracks and steeper stuff, any chance this kind of style could be put into production?

Christian Black wrote:To revive this thread a bit, people who have pinks in their street shoe size, how's the fit?

Just got a pair of pinks this season. My street size is a pretty solid 9.5, I tried on the 9.5, 9, and 8.5 and climbed around in them for a bit at the gym before buying the 8.5s. The 9.5s were slightly baggy and sloppy out of the box. The 9s were a bit better but still not a great fit and hard to edge on really small chips. The 8.5s (1 size down for me) are great, they really have a precision feel and are edging machines. They were slightly painful at first but after climbing in them for about a month they have become comfortable for multi-pitch. Excellent shoes and would highly recommend.

Doligo,

from what you say, id try on some stonelands VCS or lace. the lace model has barrel lacing down low that helps protect the laces from getting cut in cracks. these styles have wider toe boxes especially on the outside of the foot. the VCS is lined leather, the lace is lined synthetic. they fit small. they have C4 rubber, and the VCS is stiffer than the lace.

getting the stealth paint kit for adding sticky rubber/protection on top of the shoes for crack climbing is an option also buying a resole kit and using the rand material provided could possibly work, though i've never done that personally.

Stealthy wrote: getting the stealth paint kit for adding sticky rubber/protection on top of the shoes for crack climbing is an option also buying a resole kit and using the rand material provided could possibly work, though i've never done that personally.

Why not just make it production? I understand why some shoes like the pinks couldn't have them because of the nature of the lacing but for shoes like the VCS and the moccasym i really don't see any reason why you could just add rubber straight away, would save me £20 (not that i can get the rand kit in the UK) and have no (from what i can see) downside.

that guy named seb wrote: Why not just make it production? I understand why some shoes like the pinks couldn't have them because of the nature of the lacing but for shoes like the VCS and the moccasym i really don't see any reason why you could just add rubber straight away, would save me £20 (not that i can get the rand kit in the UK) and have no (from what i can see) downside.

Agreed. There is obviously a market if people are willing to pay extra to a shoe resole company to customize them. It's not like desert is not harsh on your gear, so people won't be buying moccs over and over again. I imagine boulderers would like extra rubber on the moccs too.

doligo wrote: Agreed. There is obviously a market if people are willing to pay extra to a shoe resole company to customize them. It's not like desert is not harsh on your gear, so people won't be buying moccs over and over again. I imagine boulderers would like extra rubber on the moccs too.

I have seen lots of solo climbers use the mocs and i'm sure they wouldn't miss the extra security in cracks, for a super comfortable indoor bouldering shoe it would be perfect as well (No point going for comfort outside).

that guy named seb wrote: Why not just make it production? I understand why some shoes like the pinks couldn't have them because of the nature of the lacing but for shoes like the VCS and the moccasym i really don't see any reason why you could just add rubber straight away, would save me £20 (not that i can get the rand kit in the UK) and have no (from what i can see) downside.

1. Makes the toe box not stretch to fit as nicely.
2. It's hot as fucking balls when it's sunny out. But you don't have to worry about that if you are talking in pounds sterling now do you :P

doligo wrote:Hi, Kevin. Thank you for your thorough reply. I will check out Teams - is the sizing pretty similar to Anasazi VS? Ideally, for a desert crack shoe I would like to see a Supermocc like unlined leather soft slipper with more rubber to cover the toes on top as on Copperheads and more relaxed boxier toe-box so all toes are flat. I would also like to see not a very aggressive heel. My issue with Five Ten shoes is too aggressive heels, so if I want all my toes completely flat, I end up with too much room back in the heel, which makes the shoe too sloppy for any sort of face climbing. Looks like Verdons have a roomier toe-box compared to Anasazi, am I correct? I love the Anasazi VS, but my little and ring toe end up too scrunched for any sustained jamming. It's not much of an issue for granite, where you could smear or find an occasional facehold, but it's sort of a dealbreaker on sandstone splitters. Thanks again and am looking forward to the new shoe!

bananafingers does the comparison well. You're going to want at least a full size bigger in the team

NorCalNomad wrote: 1. Makes the toe box not stretch to fit as nicely. 2. It's hot as fucking balls when it's sunny out. But you don't have to worry about that if you are talking in pounds sterling now do you :P

Both of these points make no sense when you look at all the dozens of other shoes with plenty of toe rubber, look at the genius, the solutions, the TC pro's or the new skwarma, all these shoes from la sportiva can get lots of rubber on the toe and I have yet to hear any one complain (as a la sportiva man i'm certainly not complaining).

I bought a pair of these yesterday. Size 8, my normal climbing and running shoe size and the tops of my middle toes were really painful. I climbed for a half an hour hoping by the end, I'd feel less pain, but no, still really painful. Any hope that the synthetic liner will stretch at all or should I just get another 1/2 size bigger.

John Matney wrote:I bought a pair of these yesterday. Size 8, my normal climbing and running shoe size and the tops of my middle toes were really painful. I climbed for a half an hour hoping by the end, I'd feel less pain, but no, still really painful. Any hope that the synthetic liner will stretch at all or should I just get another 1/2 size bigger.

They will stretch, is your second toe longer than your first?