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Seduction Line
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 31
votes
Routes in The Monument
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All the Right Moves T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Bone Saw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brownline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Chinese Handcuffs T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Clipper T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cornucopia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Desert Gold T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Handbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Headlamp Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lizard Locks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Madcap Laughs, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Papillon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Seduction Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Step Into The Squeezer T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Two in the Busch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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West Edge Lane S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Unknown. |
| Page Views: | 7,903 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Mar 8, 2012 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Several hundred yards to the right of Desert Gold is a beautiful streak of red varnish - easily visible as far away as the parking area. Hidden at the left edge of this streak is Seduction Line which, in my opinion, is the best 5.12- crack in Red Rocks.
Approach by scrambling up a decomposing chimney with a chockstone and lone bolt, or by scrambling up as for Hand Bone and working back left on a precarious, loose ledge to the start of the corner. There is room to belay here, but little in the way of an anchor so make sure the leader gets some good gear in early.
Begin just left of the corner by climbing easily up wedged flakes for 10 to 25' before transitioning back right into the corner - there are several opportunities to do this. Solid jams and liebacks lead to a resting stem box feature, then its game on: Lieback up the gradually narrowing crack until it is barely tips size (0 to 00 TCU's)... A few subtle features for the feet make stemming possible, but be prepared for a desperate 20' battle to the anchors.
This route currently has one of the worst anchors I've seen in Red Rocks in a long time: Two very rusty quarter inchers. Beware. I put new quicklinks and rings on them, but these really should be replaced.
Approach by scrambling up a decomposing chimney with a chockstone and lone bolt, or by scrambling up as for Hand Bone and working back left on a precarious, loose ledge to the start of the corner. There is room to belay here, but little in the way of an anchor so make sure the leader gets some good gear in early.
Begin just left of the corner by climbing easily up wedged flakes for 10 to 25' before transitioning back right into the corner - there are several opportunities to do this. Solid jams and liebacks lead to a resting stem box feature, then its game on: Lieback up the gradually narrowing crack until it is barely tips size (0 to 00 TCU's)... A few subtle features for the feet make stemming possible, but be prepared for a desperate 20' battle to the anchors.
This route currently has one of the worst anchors I've seen in Red Rocks in a long time: Two very rusty quarter inchers. Beware. I put new quicklinks and rings on them, but these really should be replaced.
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