Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Essential knots for climbers
Follow topic:
ViperScale wrote: That is why I don't like overhand because it will untie itself unless it is weighted. Until you have something like body weight on it it can untie itself I have seen a well dressed overhand as a backup knot at the bottom of a rappel untie itself.Clearly, we are not talking about the same knot. The double overhand doesn't require weight to stay tied. Let's see. Tie overhand. Weight it. Reppel. Unweight it. Bam! It unties! Yeah. You are doing it wrong. |
ViperScale wrote: That is why I don't like overhand because it will untie itself unless it is weighted. Until you have something like body weight on it it can untie itself I have seen a well dressed overhand as a backup knot at the bottom of a rappel untie itself.A single overhand can come undone when it isn't weighted. But that's why you should use a double overhand for the end of your rope to close the system. As for an overhand on a bight, it will not come untied unless you untie it even if its dressed poorly. (I suppose that it needs to be pulled tight, but that should be intuitive). The flat overhand (aka EDK) is the rappel bend of choice because it will not get stuck as frequently as other knots. Tests consistently show that it is more than adequately strong enough for rappelling. Is it weaker than a flemish bend or double fisherman's? Yes! Does that actually matter when you're rapping? No! - but take my advice for what you will. If you feel safer using a double fisherman's for all your rappels then do that if it helps you mentally feel safer. |
Jeremy Bauman wrote: A single overhand can come undone when it isn't weighted. But that's why you should use a double overhand for the end of your rope to close the system. As for an overhand on a bight, it will not come untied unless you untie it even if its dressed poorly. (I suppose that it needs to be pulled tight, but that should be intuitive). The flat overhand (aka EDK) is the rappel bend of choice because it will not get stuck as frequently as other knots. Tests consistently show that it is more than adequately strong enough for rappelling. Is it weaker than a flemish bend or double fisherman's? Yes! Does that actually matter when you're rapping? No! - but take my advice for what you will. If you feel safer using a double fisherman's for all your rappels then do that if it helps you mentally feel safer.Double overhand is ok I don't have a problem with it but the original post I quoted said overhand, not double overhand. I personally like knots that can't be screwed up (yes an overhand is probably the easiest knot to tie but if not weighted can untie itself) and even a screwed up fisher will hold so I prefer knots that can't be screwed up (yes any knot can be completely screwed up but as long as you know the rope has to be going through opposing each other even a screwed up fisher with the loop on the outside will hold good enough for a rappel). I never tell a beginner to try to tie a knot unless it is near impossible to screw up. Personally I wouldn't let a beginner even do a clove which is a relatively easy knot to tie if you know what you are doing. I guess the same goes for the evil PAS. Anyone I take with me who doesn't have a ton of experience I give them some kinda "PAS" So all they have to do is clip 2 biners into an anchor and they are good. Chances of screwing that up twice is really low. Who cares how you make the pass as long as all they have to do is taking a locking biner unclip and clip it into something else. |
|
I will not get into senseless MP arguments ... |
 ;) |
Gregger Man wrote: ;)You beat me to it!  |
|
We'd practice most of these one handed with our teeth..it was an 80's thing.. |
doug rouse wrote:We'd practice most of these one handed with our teeth..it was an 80's thing..In the cold shower in the dark? |
|
palstek, followed thru |
|
Essential knots and hitches |
|
The Alpine Butterfly is one to know. |
