All Locations > Tennessee > Tennessee Wall > T-Wall East

Golden Locks

Name: Golden Locks
Rating: 3.6

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in T-Wall East

L › R R › L A › Z

	[Redacted] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	[Redacted] T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	[Redacted] T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	[Redacted] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	A Tension Span T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Accidental Oralist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ain't So Eazy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Airborne T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Art T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Atom Smasher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Ba'th Party Politics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	BGP (Of Vice and Men) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Bin Laden Been Fooled T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Blind Date T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Blood on the Rocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Board Walk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Bonfire of the Vanities T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Bosom of the Rat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Brazen Serpent S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
	Bugs From Hell T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Cake Walk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Can O' Worms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Capital Assets (aka Mantis aka Never on Sunday) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cathedral Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Celestial Mechanics T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Centerfold T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Changnurdle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Clip and Trip T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Competitive Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Contents Under Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Coolidge Effect, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Corner Pockets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cota Coca T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Crackattack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Crash Position T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crazy Hooker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Creaky Tweaks T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Curb Sandwich S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Day's Work T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Death By Boobalooba T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Defcon Five T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Defender of the Crown S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Devil's Guard T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Digital Display T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Digital Macabre T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dirt Bag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Don't Tell A Soul T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Electric Rats T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Empowerment Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Espirit Nuvo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Exodus T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Exposed Aggregate T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	False Alarm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Family Plan, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Farmer Roof Extension S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Fear on Ice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Fill in the Blanks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Finagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Finger Lockin' Good T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Fly with the Falcon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Fox On The Run T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Garden, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Genesis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Geriatric's Day Off T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Gift of Power S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Golden Gloves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Golden Locks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Govinator, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Grand Contusion T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R
	Grandma's Couch T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Gravity Creeps T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Guardian of the Gate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Hands Across America T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Heaven of Animals, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Hell Bent For Leather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Hidden Assets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Hold Your Horses! T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hold Your Reptile T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	House of The Rising Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Hungry for Heaven T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	I'm Late T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	In Pursuit of Excellence T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	In Search of the Source T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Infinite Pursuit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Intruders in the Dust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jay Walker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Let's Face It! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Line Drive T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Live and Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Lord of the Dance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Love Handle T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Lucy and Annie May T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Mad Hatter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	March Hare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Margin Of Error T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Margin of Profit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Massive Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Mean Cuisine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Meatrix, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Meeker Rat, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Mirage S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Molly and Rocket T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Moms Are Marvelous T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Motor Boatin S.O.B. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Motor Booty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mrs. Socrates T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Multiple Use Area T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	My Lost China Doll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Myth of the Spastics T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Nappy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	New Beginnings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Night Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	No More Tiers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Not Slug Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Nutrasweet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Octopod palace T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Omen, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Open Sesame T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Over the Rainbow S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Paleface S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Passages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	People's Express T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Pinga Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Plastic Toys T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Point of Departure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Points O' Contact T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Precious Orr T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Prerequisite for Excellence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Proof of Purchase T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Puppy Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ravin' Maniac T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Razor Worm T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Reptile Analysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Reptile Paralysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Restless Pedestrian T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Riddle on the Roof T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Ruby Fruit Jungle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Sanscrit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Scamper Proof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Seal Test T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Shiva's Last Dance T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Short Arm Inspection T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Slay Ride T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c X
	Slug Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sly Willie Snores T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Smooth Operator T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Solar Circus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Some Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Southern Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Spirit of the Game T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Squatter's Rites T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Standard Deviation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Steel Puppies T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Steeplechase T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Steepopolis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Stepping Stone T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Stone Wave T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Sugar in the Raw T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Sun King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sunday Gardening T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Super Slide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Supernova T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Surf's Up S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Sweep, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Three Stars from God T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Tiers for Beers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Time Takes a Cigarette T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Totem Pole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	True Colors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Trungle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Tunnel Vision T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Turbo Zone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Tweeter and the Monkey Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Twistin' in the Wind S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Unknown T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Unknown Soldier T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Up in Arms T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Viva La Balance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Who Needs a Thnead? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA:	Rob Robinson, Marvin Webb - 1985
Page Views:	20,616 total · 97/month
Shared By:	saxfiend on Nov 20, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

One of the true T-Wall classics, Golden Locks may be the most popular route at the crag. Its beautiful splitter crack is instantly recognizable, and the exposure above the Tennessee River far below makes for great photo opportunities. Golden Locks may also be the most sandbagged T-Wall moderate: many leaders have been humbled by this stiff 5.8 (now given a 5.9 by the FA in his new guidebook).

It's wise to have a spotter ready for the overhanging, bouldery start; possibly the toughest move on the route. Once you get past this early crux, route-finding isn't an issue: follow the obvious hand crack straight up the cliff, pausing for a welcome rest at a shallow cave. Save some pro and energy reserves for the steeper sections toward the top.