Rack for Arapiles

I will be in Arapiles for a few weeks for the first time. I'm bringing a couple sets of nuts, but what other gear is commonly useful there? We will be climbing up to about mid 11s, I hope.

Last time I was there, I had a single set of stoppers (WC Rocks 1-10), blue through red Aliens, and .4 - 3 Camalots. I think I made 5 cam placements in the entire week I was there. And was begging/borrowing stoppers from wherever I could.

I wish I had brought a couple cams (maybe look up specific objective routes to know what sizes you'll need) and then 3 full sets of stoppers (two regular sets, 1 set of offsets) 10 "alpine" draws, and 4 quickdraws (for when the draw is loaded over a sharp iron band and you need something more cut resistant).

RPs were invented there. Also bring some of those (or comparably small nuts).
Alternately, you can buy some in Horsham at the climbing shop (forgot the name).
I'm jealous, I loved the place. Have a great trip.

Nuts, lots of nuts; that place eats them like they're complimentary. As Jon H says cam placements are not that common unless you're rubbish at placing passive gear.

The other thing is slide on bolt hangers for the carrot bolts you get there, and make sure you don't clip them with wire gate biners!

Check out chockstone.org/chockstone.asp for some beta.

A full set of cams, including micros would be great. Personally I often climb with 2 sets for stringing pitches together.

But like others have said a double set of nuts, and some micro-nuts if you can get your hands on them.

Arapiles eats up gear so you can climb on just about anything.

While I didn't climb grades as hard as you, I didn't really have anything special in terms of gear. The rp's I did buy I never used, and my rack was a single set of BD cams from .3-2 with a double set of BD nuts 3-11. Never felt runout or stressed on anything. I would recommend alot of slings, since there's ample chance to sling holds.

Thanks, looks like Im bringing a double set of BD nuts, a set of micros, a set of off set nuts and double cams up to half inch,then BD cams to number 2. Sound about right? I heard I can get the bolt hangars in the climbing shop.

Stone Brew wrote:Thanks, looks like Im bringing a double set of BD nuts, a set of micros, a set of off set nuts and double cams up to half inch,then BD cams to number 2. Sound about right? I heard I can get the bolt hangars in the climbing shop.

Sounds about right... I doubt you'll need bolt hangers. They are quite rare at Araps now. More common at out of the way crags. Might as well bring a 3 too if you have it. If you have a large set of off sets you could consider leaving a set of BD nuts behind. BD just don't seem to fit as well as WC or DMM.

Definitely go for offsets. They suit the nature of the rock and will seat easier and more confidently than regulars. I come from a relatively soft sandstone area and always find I need to take extra care when placing passive pro at Araps to make sure it is seated correctly. This is due to the hard, and sometimes smooth, rock and the offsets just seem more secure. To be honest you can probably do without the micro stoppers. I have them specifically for Araps (everyone says they are invented there and therefore mandatory) but never use them. Also, I place more tricams at Araps than anywhere else. They are great for the obscure little shapes that you often come across there and weigh very little.