Mountain Project Logo

Quickdraws - WTF Are You Racking??

Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90

I only climb @ Rifle, that way I don't need to buy quickdraws.

Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247

Black Diamond ....

ChrisJohnsonMT · · Missoula, MT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 55

Whatever is cheap when I need new ones.

Alexander Stathis · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 656
John Wilder wrote:DMM Alpha Sport draws. Crazy good action, super easy clip, and every time I leave them up on a route for the day, everyone comments on how great they are. if only they weren't so damn expensive- something like $27-28/per draw.
Yeah, these are the best sport draws. No comparison. Other companies are starting to catch on. Check out the Wild Country Protons and the Mammut Bionics.
Christian RodaoBack · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 1,486

DMM Alpha 25% off at Gear Express

gearexpress.com/dmm-alpha-s…

willkelly · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 20

The black diamond posiwires are amazing

Jake C · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 10

As long as there is a bent gate on the rope end and it didn't destroy my wallet, I'm a happy camper!

JK- Branin · · NYC-ish · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 56

I've 14 BD Livewire draws (the "old" ones with the Dynotron biner on one end) for sport climbing two of them on long bones and two rigged up as Yosemite draws. Way more quickdraw than a lousy climber like me needs, but I scored them at a screaming deal (as cheap as I could have gotten anything else), and I really like them.

For trad I have 14 alpine draws with BD Hoodwire biners, and a couple of screamers for sketchy placements.

Also have a dozen-ish frakendraws I don't care about kicking around for hanging on projects, supplementing other draws for long climbs, loaning out, etc.

I have too much gear.

Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245

DMM prowires

Brian Lavett · · Wilsonville · Joined May 2016 · Points: 250

DMM Alpha Sport. Things are great. Easy action, tough as hell, and yeah, they look cool.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

Climbing Technology blah-blah-blah, climbingtechnology.com/en/o… 'cause they were on a huge sale when I was in need of dozen durable QDs.

Good gear. The only concern - I have 15 of them (three 5-packs), and they all are 12cm. I would prefer to have 6 short (12cm dogbone), 6 medium (18cm dogbone), and 3 long (25cm to 30cm dogbone).

The best sport QDs I've ever had were handmade DMM Alpha keylock straight binner on the bolt side + Petzl Express 18cm/25cm dogbones + DMM Alpha Trad wiregate binner on the rope side. Kinda expensive, although you know what you pay for.

christopher adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

I really like Petzl Djinn's.

Caz Drach · · C'Wood, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310
John Wilder wrote:DMM Alpha Sport draws. Crazy good action, super easy clip, and every time I leave them up on a route for the day, everyone comments on how great they are. if only they weren't so damn expensive- something like $27-28/per draw.
^^^THIS

YES! Aside from cost, phenomenal. Gearexpress.com has them on sale for like 20-25% off now.

They are bomber and will last a lot longer than other draws out there.

Never once have i regretted having them.
Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 11,622
John Wilder wrote:DMM Alpha Sport draws. Crazy good action, super easy clip, and every time I leave them up on a route for the day, everyone comments on how great they are. if only they weren't so damn expensive- something like $27-28/per draw.
That's what I use also - they're beautiful, a bit pricey but hey, they're being made in Wales by climbers.
Sam Stephens · · PORTLAND, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,090

Livewires

Scott Morris · · Bountiful, UT · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 853

Petzl Spirits for clipping bolts. Smooth action, durable, keylock nose, nice wide, beefy dogbone for ease of yanking upon. I'd also much rather lob onto the nice beefy Spirit dogbones instead of an ultralight piece of dental floss. My 20 year old Spirits are still as snappy and good as the day I bought them. But I like the latest generation of Spirits even more with the lighter weight design and the flattened face on the bent gate for even easier clipping. Sounds gimicky but I'm totally sold on them.

For trad I prefer a combination of Wild Country Astro 18 cm draws along with alpine draws made up of Wild Country Heliums. I like the Astros because they're super light and I like their super floppy dental floss dogbones to minimize gear movement. The Heliums are by far the best I've used for alpine draws....no snag nose, big and easy to clip, perfect gate action and tension. They're hands down better than hoodwires, infernos, hotwires,etc, having used all of the above (although admittedly all work fine at the end of the day if you're not too picky).

T340 · · Idaho · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 5

DMM Phantoms, mostly of the 18 cm variety. I wait till GearExpress has them on sale! :)

walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 130
camp-usa.com/products/quick…

super light and pretty good clipping with the skinny rope.
Patrick Shyvers · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10
Tom Sherman wrote:think i'm starting to hate my bd hardgoods, all my posiwire dogbones are going to shit after 2 years (biners are fine)
$3-6 for new ones

blackdiamondequipment.com/e…

dynex has a short shelf life anyway.
Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
walmongr wrote:http://www.camp-usa.com/products/quickdraws/nano-22-express-ks/ super light and pretty good clipping with the skinny rope.
I like the nanos for my gear side on alpine draws and racking biners, but would go for something beefier for sport if you're taking many lead falls. Pretty narrow rope radius, I wouldn't want to put the wear on my rope working a route with them. They also pick up bolt scars easier.

I like my petzl spirit straight on the bolt side, camp orbit bent gate on the rope and the beefy petzl dogbones for sport.

I have BD OZ on the bolt/gear side with camp photons for trad draws. Wouldn't buy photons again, floppy gate tension doesn't inspire confidence (although I have whipped on them).
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
Post a Reply to "Quickdraws - WTF Are You Racking??"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started