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Search and Recue in Eldo today

Original Post
Jfriday1 · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 40

A lot of search and rescue people in Eldo today, looked like they were bringing someone down from Redgarden area. Any news?

Nick Wilder · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 4,098

I witnessed the Gambit accident. At about 1:30pm, as the leader reached the first belay (where we waiting for parties above), he fell near the last move about 110' up. His pro held and he stopped about 20' lower, saddled by the rope and with a bloody head injury (he was wearing a helmet, now destroyed). He was in and out of consciousness at this point but became coherent soon after getting to the ground.

Sam Vanderhyden (the creator of the MP mobile app) was with me and quickly set up a fixed line, reached the climber, attached him to his belay loop, untied him from the lead rope, and rapped the pair to the ground. The belayer could not verbally communicate with the victim and with no line of site to the fallen climber, it could have been a lengthy and difficult evacuation if someone was not there to help.

911 was called and Rocky Mountain Rescue was on the scene in less than 30 minutes - pretty amazing response considering the hike from the parking lot is about that long! They accompanied the victim who walked on his own down to an ambulance.

Jfriday1 · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 40

Hope everyone fully recovers.

ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 410

Great job Nick and Sam! There was a rescue going on at the same time on Redgarden. We were hiking out and they were setting up lines along the trail for a carry out. Park staff at the bridge told us a boulderer had a fractured ankle in addition to the Gambit accident. Busy day in the park.

Mike McHugh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 420

Yay Sam & Nick & RMR!

On a slight tangent, it seems like many of Eldo's early season accidents are preventable*. Yesterday's accidents don't qualify, but maybe if I blabber a bit, someone might be differently mindful this year and avoid a common accident. The ones that I see every year include:

1) End of rope/inattentive belayer accidents: Seems like around here it's frequently a belayer not minding the end of the rope whilst lowering someone, rope end shoots through belay device, climber drops.

2) Old fart's disease: Somehow the memories of all those great ascents of yore get rolled into one, the memories of the crappy days are discarded. Middle-aged, moderate climbers (like myself) go get on that Eldo 5.9+ that used to seem so easy. Accidents ensue.

3) Climbing below others, rockfall: Why anyone would climb Rewritten on a nice weekend, below three other parties, is beyond me.

See ya out there.

*Disclaimer: I'm a ding-danged maintenance guy. I build trails, clean bathrooms, and climb in blue jeans. My opinions may be silly.

ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 410

I would add don't eat lunch anywhere near the base of Rewritten - husband got nailed in the leg with a rock whilst we were relaxing after a fun ascent. Thought we were back far enough, early season reminders. Also, wear a helmet.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
Nick Wilder wrote:I witnessed the Gambit accident. At about 1:30pm, as the leader reached the first belay (where we waiting for parties above), he fell near the last move about 110' up. His pro held and he stopped about 20' lower, saddled by the rope and with a bloody head injury (he was wearing a helmet, now destroyed). He was in and out of consciousness at this point but became coherent soon after getting to the ground. Sam Vanderhyden (the creator of the MP mobile app) was with me and quickly set up a fixed line, reached the climber, attached him to his belay loop, untied him from the lead rope, and rapped the pair to the ground. The belayer could not verbally communicate with the victim and with no line of site to the fallen climber, it could have been a lengthy and difficult evacuation if someone was not there to help. 911 was called and Rocky Mountain Rescue was on the scene in less than 30 minutes - pretty amazing response considering the hike from the parking lot is about that long! They accompanied the victim who walked on his own down to an ambulance.
Nick, does "saddled by the rope" mean that it was between his legs, and presumably that the rope flipped him when it came tight, causing his head injury?
Thegillest · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 60
Mike McHugh wrote:Yay Sam & Nick & RMR! On a slight tangent, it seems like many of Eldo's early season accidents are preventable*. Yesterday's accidents don't qualify, but maybe if I blabber a bit, someone might be differently mindful this year and avoid a common accident. The ones that I see every year include: 1) End of rope/inattentive belayer accidents: Seems like around here it's frequently a belayer not minding the end of the rope whilst lowering someone, rope end shoots through belay device, climber drops. 2) Old fart's disease: Somehow the memories of all those great ascents of yore get rolled into one, the memories of the crappy days are discarded. Middle-aged, moderate climbers (like myself) go get on that Eldo 5.9+ that used to seem so easy. Accidents ensue. 3) Climbing below others, rockfall: Why anyone would climb Rewritten on a nice weekend, below three other parties, is beyond me. See ya out there. *Disclaimer: I'm a ding-danged maintenance guy. I build trails, clean bathrooms, and climb in blue jeans. My opinions may be silly.
Ok Mike... You never cease to amuse! Polish those carbides! I'm glad he walked out and was immediately assisted by the climbers near by. Stay safe. Have fun!
Peter Botsford · · East Orleans · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0

I was the climber who fell on Gambit.. Most importantly, I want to thank you Nick and Sam and all others in your party who assisted. From the bottom of my heart and beyond. I've often been struck with gratefulness thinking about your assistance in the days that have passed since the accident, and have told several people the story of the guardian angels who were so fortuitously there to rescue me. Words cannot describe how thankful Me and my girlfriend are. Without you and your effective assistance, it would have been a much much harder day and the injuries I sustained may have been more severe. I cannot believe my luck in having such competent and kind climbers nearby.

As for the fall, a big lesson learned on my part. It was my 3rd time up this climb in the past 2 weeks, all other ascents I lead easily without breaking a sweat. My guard was let down and I didn't mentally prepare myself properly for the climb, probably because of the especially moderate nature of the first pitch. My focus was on just moving over the rock to warm up, and to try out my brand new climbing shoes with impeccable edges on the smallest holds I possibly could. My hands slipped on a loose hold in the crack to the left of the final slab section and the next thing I know, I was at the base of the climb confused at why there was blood all over my face. I don't remember any of the rescue or lowering, but my girlfriend who was belaying said it was swift and smooth. What I learned: don't rush. The grades mean nothing. Climbing is serious. Always. Helmets. If I had not worn one, I may not be alive. Be weary of saddling the rope. Unexpected falls can take place at any time. And finally, take the one moment or two it takes to do a bit of mental preparation before taking off on lead. There's no such thing as a free handout.

I ended up with 7 staples in the gash on my head, and with what the doctors considered a severe concussion. The CT scan showed a small amount of internal bleeding in my head, which lead me to spending the night in the hospital, only the be cleared and sent home noon the next day. I should be climbing again in a week.

Another massive thank you to you, Nick, and please make sure you extend it to Sam and the other incredibly kind women in your party. I will remember what you folks did forever. Words cannot describe.

Cheers and safe climbing,

A million thank you's,

-Peter

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450

Really glad you're OK Peter!

Just curious, a couple people now have used the term "saddling the rope" in this thread, and I still don't know what it means. Could someone explain it to me?

Jfriday1 · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 40

Peter I am glad you are well, my partner and I almost did the same climb that day, but decided for a different area. Thanks for sharing with everyone.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Optimistic wrote:Really glad you're OK Peter! Just curious, a couple people now have used the term "saddling the rope" in this thread, and I still don't know what it means. Could someone explain it to me?
I think this is what he is talking about, but not sure:

mountainproject.com/v/is-th…
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Damn dude...glad you are alright.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625
Mike McHugh wrote: *Disclaimer: I'm a ding-danged maintenance guy. I build trails, clean bathrooms, and climb in blue jeans. My opinions may be silly.
Brill-yunt!
Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625
Nick Wilder wrote:I witnessed the Gambit accident. At about 1:30pm, as the leader reached the first belay (where we waiting for parties above), he fell near the last move about 110' up. His pro held and he stopped about 20' lower, saddled by the rope and with a bloody head injury (he was wearing a helmet, now destroyed). He was in and out of consciousness at this point but became coherent soon after getting to the ground. Sam Vanderhyden (the creator of the MP mobile app) was with me and quickly set up a fixed line, reached the climber, attached him to his belay loop, untied him from the lead rope, and rapped the pair to the ground. The belayer could not verbally communicate with the victim and with no line of site to the fallen climber, it could have been a lengthy and difficult evacuation if someone was not there to help. 911 was called and Rocky Mountain Rescue was on the scene in less than 30 minutes - pretty amazing response considering the hike from the parking lot is about that long! They accompanied the victim who walked on his own down to an ambulance.
Wow, Nick, you actually get out and climb? I thought you lived in an underground bunker and just fixed all the crazy batsh*t things what go on on the site!
WooHoo!
HA!
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
FrankPS wrote: I think this is what he is talking about, but not sure: mountainproject.com/v/is-th…
Thanks Frank...
Slightly quicker to say than "getting the rope behind your leg", I guess!
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

Thanks for the reminder to not be complacent, Pete! We rarely hear the full story of accidents. I too have climbed that route at least five times, taking a party of three up once as their friend/guide. But I know for a fact today that I am just not on my game in Eldo and would need to log some time there to get back up to speed.

Craig Quincy · · Louisville, CO · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 306

Pete, best wishes for a speedy recovery and a cool scar.

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

dang, almost the exact same thing happened to a buddy of mine on Gambit a few years back, same place on the route and similar injury. Crazy coincidence

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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