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new cams?
Pete Spri wrote: So what your picture graph shows is that metolius weighs the same as the bd, but has an extra cam. As usual, nice work, metolius! Still the lightest!It would actually take two extra cams for Metolius to cover the same range as the listed BD cams.The BD #4 is a much larger size than the Metolius #8. |
Ray Pinpillage wrote: It would actually take two extra cams for Metolius to cover the same range as the listed BD cams.The BD #4 is a much larger size than the Metolius #8.He is actually only comparing .4 through 3 BD when you look at his graph. That is compared to 2-8 metolius. Its not obvious though, but you can see at the sub-tallies. So in that range, yes, the same weight and one more cam. |
Pete Spri wrote: He is actually only comparing .4 through 3 BD when you look at his graph. That is compared to 2-8 metolius. Its not obvious though, but you can see at the sub-tallies. So in that range, yes, the same weight and one more cam.I guess you're right, I didn't add up up the BD side. The BD cams still have more range but if all you care about is weight then the Metolius cams look better on paper. A case could be made for either but if weight and longevity are two important features to you the Metolius UL cam is probably better. If you need a bigger UL than the Metolius #8 you'll have to look elsewhere. I doubt I'll run out to buy either.... |
Pete Spri wrote: So what your picture graph shows is that metolius weighs the same as the bd, but has an extra cam. As usual, nice work, metolius! Still the lightest!yup yup yup the new mastercams in the roughly equivalent sizes weight about the same as the new UL camalots though from a proper "real life" comparison you would need to add the weight of the extra racking biner, or double rack one of the metolius the other note is that the new mastercams seem like they are mostly metal (please correct me if im wrong), unlike the new aliens and camalots which on the rare occasion has seen broken trigger bars one last point is the the smaller mastercams should be pretty narrow headed, the UL camalots if similar to the C4s would likely have wider head width ... at the end of the day the price is probably similar between the two, considering the extra cam ... as well as the weight ... the question is do you want something that last beyond the 3-10 years BD suggests ... and can resale or pass to your kids do you want a general use cam thats fast and light, or a dedicated fast and light cam ;) |
Ray Pinpillage wrote: I guess you're right, I didn't add up up the BD side. The BD cams still have more range but if all you care about is weight then the Metolius cams look better on paper. A case could be made for either but if weight and longevity are two important features to you the Metolius UL cam is probably better. If you need a bigger UL than the Metolius #8 you'll have to look elsewhere. I doubt I'll run out to buy either....Yeah, bd units still have more range per unit, metolius units are still lighter. All in all just depends what you like. Ideally I bring my rack of met and my partner brings the BD and we are covered. And I do keep harping on metolius to make a #9 again. I like the small supercams, but the bigger ones walk too much for me. #9 would see a lot of use, #10 about as much as the #4 bd, which is to say not a lot, but still worth having. But man, metolius 9 was a great size! |
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Also note that TCU's 1-4 are combined 2g lighter than the new ULMCs |
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I think he means TCUs. The measured weights of my Met. TCUs are consistent with that. Maybe they're marginally less versatile but if you look around the TCUs are available for less than half the price of the ULCamalots, and for the alpine use case the difference in versatility is negligible. |
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From my own rack: |
Pete Spri wrote: Yeah, bd units still have more range per unit, metolius units are still lighter. All in all just depends what you like. Ideally I bring my rack of met and my partner brings the BD and we are covered. And I do keep harping on metolius to make a #9 again. I like the small supercams, but the bigger ones walk too much for me. #9 would see a lot of use, #10 about as much as the #4 bd, which is to say not a lot, but still worth having. But man, metolius 9 was a great size!An extra cam is still an extra cam, so there is that too. Kinda hard to place a seventh cam when you only have six. |
T340 wrote:Not to join in this fur-ball, but I look forward to trying out the new C4s. I imagine I'll probably stick with the prior generation cams,they are great and I have like three sets of the damn things-it would cost me the equivalent of the GNP of a small African nation to replace all those with the new lightweight ones!Thats one of the most ignorant and irrelevant comments you could choose to make... keep your hair and 2 cents to yourself next time before making a statement like that. Toot you’re own horn in private |
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the TCUs also have the advantage over mastercams in that they are "open" ... they wont freeze up as easily as say aliens or mastercams, and its easy to clear of ice/snow/mud/dirt |
         Got a 2,3,4. Probably will grab a 1. The weight savings is nice I guess, but you barley notice the weight in one on one comparison. Maybe a whole rack feels different. Here's some pics. Haven't used em at all yet. Just played with em. It's also a 2kn reduction from a regular C4. UL is 12kn older is 14kn for a #3 |
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Today I noticed that the 0.4 Ultralight Camalot's individual cam lobes are significantly narrower than the 0.4 C4 Camalot's lobes. By narrow I mean there is less surface area in contact with the rock. |
Brassmonkey wrote:Has anyone heard an update on when the new Wild Country Friends will be out? Cant wait to pick a few up and try them out!I've gotten my hands on the new Friends and can say that, in my limited trad experience, they are just as nice as C4s. Very smooth, better sizing system than the old friends, identical range to c4s, plus an extendable sling. My opinion may be slightly biased, but they are very nice. There is currently only one rack in the US, but shipments should be coming over within a couple months, they're worth the wait. |
Luc Ried wrote: I've gotten my hands on the new Friends and can say that, in my limited trad experience, they are just as nice as C4s. Very smooth, better sizing system than the old friends, identical range to c4s, plus an extendable sling. My opinion may be slightly biased, but they are very nice. There is currently only one rack in the US, but shipments should be coming over within a couple months, they're worth the wait.I like my helium friends, but one big question of difference on the new ones- are they still single axel or are they double axel.... EDIT: ok... thanks google..... |
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Are the new friends being sold in the US yet? I've contacted a WC dealer not to far from me, hoping for the best. |
JacksonLandFill wrote:Are the new friends being sold in the US yet? I've contacted a WC dealer not to far from me, hoping for the best. (this may be the first thread I've read entirely)No they aren't. They will be sold in the US starting in May |
Luc Ried wrote: No they aren't. They will be sold in the US starting in MayThanks! |
  Consumers should be able to purchase the WC Friends in a couple weeks |
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Just climbed with somebody who had a #4 UL C4, was pretty sweet...but you still were looking for a place to sink it in and get it off your rack ASAP. If I ever feel the need to get a cam that big, it'll probably be an ultralight, as I did feel a noticeable difference in weight and it can still hold a truck. Might finish my 2-3 doubles in UL as well, as they're relatively heavy. |
