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> Flagstaff Area
> Mt Elden Crags
> Elysian Buttress
> Left Buttress
Mechanical Persistence
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.1 from 41
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Routes in Left Buttress
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Elysian Buttress Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mean Old Sun T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Mechanical Persistence S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | D. Cole, P. Rullman |
| Page Views: | 7,125 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Will Cobb on Apr 20, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Mechanical Persistence is a great four pitch sport route up the Elysian Buttress. Expect fun and engaging climbing. This route makes for a great link-up with the Original Route.
Pitch 1 (5.10a) - The start for this route is located up and right from the Elysian's Original Route and down and left from the descent gully. Climb straight up vertical face past a few bolts then up a featured slab with more fixed pro. Move left at the top of this pitch to a two bolt anchor. (~90')
Pitch 2 (5.9) - Move up and left from anchors climbing over broken terrain to another two bolt anchor. (~90')
Pitch 3 (5.11a/b) - Move up and left off the belay and climb thin crimps past many bolts to a wonderful thank god hold. Finish on easy slab to nice ledge with a two bolt anchor. (~100')
Pitch 4 (5.10b) - Straight up off belay to the top of the formation. (~85')
Descent - Rappel down the 4th pitch of Mechanical Persistence to the top of pitch 3. From this anchor rap 70' down and right to a large ledge. Walk to the far side of this ledge and scramble down the gully and back to your packs. It is possible to rappel down the entire route. However it is nearly impossible to pull the ropes from the anchor atop pitch #3.
Pitch 1 (5.10a) - The start for this route is located up and right from the Elysian's Original Route and down and left from the descent gully. Climb straight up vertical face past a few bolts then up a featured slab with more fixed pro. Move left at the top of this pitch to a two bolt anchor. (~90')
Pitch 2 (5.9) - Move up and left from anchors climbing over broken terrain to another two bolt anchor. (~90')
Pitch 3 (5.11a/b) - Move up and left off the belay and climb thin crimps past many bolts to a wonderful thank god hold. Finish on easy slab to nice ledge with a two bolt anchor. (~100')
Pitch 4 (5.10b) - Straight up off belay to the top of the formation. (~85')
Descent - Rappel down the 4th pitch of Mechanical Persistence to the top of pitch 3. From this anchor rap 70' down and right to a large ledge. Walk to the far side of this ledge and scramble down the gully and back to your packs. It is possible to rappel down the entire route. However it is nearly impossible to pull the ropes from the anchor atop pitch #3.
Location
During the approach aim for the largest lefthand buttress. Mechanical Persistence is the bolted line left of the descent gully. The descent gully should not be confused with the black, dry waterfall. As with the Original Route location, "finding this route is the real crux. During the approach head for the largest lefthand buttress. If you find a black, dry waterfall, you are too far to the left and need to back track" (further right on the wall)
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