What are the ethics of "reserving" climbs in Jtree by camping right next to them?

I've seen plenty of posts about topropers hogging climbs but I have never seen this posted.

This weekend we were trying to wind out a trip by trying to knock off climbs in the Indian Cove area on Campfire Crag. People were on Picnic and Mcstain so we went over to Feminine Itch. A party was camped in the adjacent campsite and on "I Love My Marine".
I asked if we could climb Feminine Itch, They asked if we were going to be long as they were planning to climb it next. We said no.
We both led it quick. They were still on their Marine climb - before my partner took down our gear we asked if they wanted to switch climbs. They said no - they would be taking it down soon. So I TR'd the direct start to Feminine Itch.
As my partner got ready to TR the direct start climb they said they had had climbers all day the day before at the camp site and were looking for a little solitude. So we picked up and left.
The guy said with 4 kids it was convenient to camp right next to the climbs.

Basically they reserved two of the popular easy Indian Cove climbs by camping next to them.

I understand non-climbing people wanting solitude but my first impulse is that it is poor form for climbers to camp right next to popular climbs and expect no one else to climb them.

We just moved on to other climbs that had opened up and it was no issue but the situation felt wrong.

What do you think?

Hey Lou,
I'm the guy with the family camping in site 41. First of all, thanks for respecting our family's right to solitude, even though we obviously weren't looking for solitude at Campfire Crag in JTree. We just didn't want two strangers hanging out in our site for two hours trying to figure out the direct start to Feminine Itch. Just to set the record straight, I made it clear when you asked permission (which by the way is the park service regulation) to climb that you weren't going to toprope it and you and your partner would each climb it and leave. The bottom line is there are a few hundred other routes in Indian Cove and a few thousand in JTree to choose from instead of top roping 1 and 2 star climbs in our reserved campsite with four kids. Also, you must ask permission to climb in an occupied campsite and I gave you permission but you tried to push it. Hope you get to do I Love My Marine someday.
See you around, JT

If someone camped at the base of a climb with the sole purpose of "reserving" it I would say they were in the wrong, but honestly not surprised it happened at a place like Indian Cove.

Edit: I guess I misunderstood the OP. I can understand where Jtman is coming from if they were in a designated camp site. But yes, if you pitch a tent in front of Double Cross that is a different story.

Interesting situation. Here some perspective, in American Fork there is a climb that is in a picnic site. The rule is that if some picnickers show up climbers are to exit. Part of the reason is for safety as the climbing is really right over the site. Also if climbers place their gear on the picnic table the hosts can charge them for using the site. The "rule" has worked well for several decades.

Given what you describe and the fact that these climbs are at the "back" of the sites, asking to climb is certainly the right thing to do. Especially as you note if there happens to be non-climbers in the site. However, given that they were actively climbing and said yes to you climbing I would not worry too much. That said, they were probably having a hard time saying no given they were climbing themselves.

As for the solitude - one does not get that in JT during a long weekend, especially in the camp grounds. If they really wanted "solitude" mid week is their best hope.

I think their request to time box your climb was reasonable given that it was close enough to their camp site that you thought you should ask.

wild times out at the catbox

Maybe the park shouldn't put a campsite next to a climb or allow a climb to be developed next a campsite. You are just asking for trouble.

I've had a campground occupier ask us to leave after about an hour half of climbing on multiple routes near his RV and while I was disheartened I understood that rules are rules. Doesn't matter if he was climbing the routes or playing Parcheesi. He was nice enough to mention he would be going to a bike ride in about an hour and we could come back then.

rging wrote:Maybe the park shouldn't put a campsite next to a climb or allow a climb to be developed next a campsite. You are just asking for trouble.

My first time to JTree, when I had vastly more camping experience than climbing, we arrived at our reserved Indian Cove camp site well after sunset. It was absolutely wonderful to wake in the morning surrounded by those beautiful rocks all around us. And, during the day, our neighbors had young children who were getting their "billy goat" on next to Mom & Dad who were right there in camp.

Climbers are not the only ones who enjoy the rocks by their camp site as well as a camp site right next to rocks.