Grand Illusion

Grand Illusion is a great route. It begins near the top of easy gully, which gives it an alpine feel and provides stellar exposure and gorgeous views of the notch.

Pitch 1/Approach gully: From near the top of easy gully follow a right trending gully (~180’) leading towards the pyramid. This gully consists of 4-5 very short steps of ice/rock leading to one final section of easy ice and some super easy 5th class climbing. We soloed this section but I would suggest roping up, it’s exposed and stuff tends to fly down through here.

Pitch 2: From the bolted belay you may want to climb down a few feet to reach the thickest section of the ice flow. Climb thin 3+/4- to a curtain (pillar in fatter years?) and then to fatter 2/3 ice above. There is a 40’ curtain of WI4+ that touches down on fatter years making the finish far more dramatic.

Pitch 3: From a large ledge with a huge boulder slung with tat, there’s probably another 100’ of interesting WI3+/4- that’s worth doing if you have time.

Rap with 2 ropes back down into the approach gully almost making it to Easy Gully, or with one rope to the bolts on P1.