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Pockets of Resistance
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 14 votes
Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
FA: | Randy Leavitt, Brian Spiewak and Glenn Svenson April 2003 |
Page Views: | 6,201 total · 61/month |
Shared By: | Kemper Brightman on Jan 5, 2016 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Advisory
Details
Please avoid raptor nests. El Cajon Mountain- Golden Eagles nested successfully at this site in 2009, after relocating twice between alternate nest sites. The Golden Eagle nest at El Cajon Mountain was not successful in Spring 2010. This nest was successful and fledged young in 2011 - 2021. Details from USFS posted here: fs.usda.gov/detail/clevelan…
The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
Description
This truly iconic route ascends the back-bone of Triton Tower, threading a series of huecos into a knife-edge arete above. It was featured on the cover of Rock and Ice in 2005 and is worthy of all the praise it has received since then. After falling prey to a rather prolific bolt chopper, the route was graciously re-bolted by Mike Maiden and Gordy Schafer. For a route that has been called "the best pitch of 5.12 anywhere", Resistance sees much less traffic than you'd expect.
According to Randy Leavitt:
"[Pockets of Resistance] is a brilliant combination of huecos, pockets, cutter edges, gastons and arete climbing. It is varied, exciting, technical and a little pumpy. I believe it is the best rock climb in San Diego. If you aspire to climb this grade, you should get on it. I originally rated 12b, but I am getting enough 12c ratings (and rave reviews), that I think 12c is closer to the grade of the climb"
The best way to approach the bottom of the route is to climb Supply Line to Not So Grassy Ledge, then hit the anchor just right of the Swiftness. It is also possible to climb Triton Tower and continue the traverse to the appropriate anchor.
To work the route from the top down, the best method is to climb the first two pitches of Triton Tower with a 70m rope, then Climb the next pitch, traverse over to the anchor for Pockets of Resistance, clip in and lower as you hang the draws and figure out the sequence.
According to Randy Leavitt:
"[Pockets of Resistance] is a brilliant combination of huecos, pockets, cutter edges, gastons and arete climbing. It is varied, exciting, technical and a little pumpy. I believe it is the best rock climb in San Diego. If you aspire to climb this grade, you should get on it. I originally rated 12b, but I am getting enough 12c ratings (and rave reviews), that I think 12c is closer to the grade of the climb"
The best way to approach the bottom of the route is to climb Supply Line to Not So Grassy Ledge, then hit the anchor just right of the Swiftness. It is also possible to climb Triton Tower and continue the traverse to the appropriate anchor.
To work the route from the top down, the best method is to climb the first two pitches of Triton Tower with a 70m rope, then Climb the next pitch, traverse over to the anchor for Pockets of Resistance, clip in and lower as you hang the draws and figure out the sequence.
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