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Any way of adding a crank onto my non-crank screws?

Original Post
Yer Gonna Die · · Cragville · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 175

Any way of adding a crank onto my non-crank screws?

Yer Gonna Die · · Cragville · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 175

couldn't find any online

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

They have become really hard to find, and require some filing* to fit on BD Turbo hangers. But I've done it to several and really like them.

  • Widen and deepen the slot in the knob, and taper (I think it's called a 'chamfer' but I can't find that word in the dictionary) the nut to match the inner curve of the hanger. Fix in place with Loctite or epoxy.
Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804

There was a thread on this: mountainproject.com/v/omega…

It doesn't look like Omega Pacific is making ice screws anymore.

Yer Gonna Die · · Cragville · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 175

The entrepreneur in me wants to capitalize on this highly niche market...

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804
Rich zz wrote:The entrepreneur in me wants to capitalize on this highly niche market...
Yeah...you'll sell about 20 per year so the price point will have to be $10,000 each. :-)
Yer Gonna Die · · Cragville · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 175

I'll hand deliver each one

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Rich zz wrote:I'll hand deliver each one
If you're as pixelated in real life as you are in your profile photo you'll just wind up scaring people.
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
Jarmland wrote:They're available in Sweden at this site, but maybe they just have a bunch of them in stock. northstar.se/se/produkter/k…
About $8-9 for a bag of three, if my currency exchange googling is correct. I wonder how much shipping is.

Any entrepreneur want to bankroll a large order?

Google found them listed at a website for military sales, but a) it wasn't clear that they had them any longer and b) I got the impression that the site is for sales to US Armed Svcs personnel only.
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

OK, slow morning at home, so I'm playing at the workbench. I bought a 7/16 x 2 inch Clevis pin from Lowes ($1.50). Shortened it, cut a slot in it, slipped a loose-enough-to-spin bit of tubing (this one's steel but aluminum would be better re. rust), and glued it on a BD screw. When we finally get some local ice I'll give it a field trial.







CCChanceR Ronemus · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 130

Careful with adding a knob that doesn't flip closed. Dane has an article on cold thistle about how knobs left open can slice your chord.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
CCChanceR wrote:Careful with adding a knob that doesn't flip closed. Dane has an article on cold thistle about how knobs left open can slice your chord.
IIRC it's the sharp Cr-Mo edge of a BD screw hanger that can do that. Omega was clear BITD that their add-on knobs will simply snap off if the rope falls across them. A glued-on knob like the one above would be even weaker than that. Bottom line - I'm not concerned. YMMV.
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Another day, another version or two of the Ghetto Knob:



RDW · · Toronto, Canada · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 185

I've done some ghetto-fitting of old screws too.

I used a zip tie and a piece of plastic tubing to create the desired effect. It's flimsy and looks pretty janky, but it gets the job done and will break away in the event of a fall (negating the cord cutting worries mentioned above).

I'll post pics when I get home.

Yer Gonna Die · · Cragville · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 175

are you home?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

Will this eliminate the need for the crank?

fasticeclimb.com/

Mark R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

I purchased a 6-pack of OP knobs from Acme Climbing in Spokane, WA about a year ago. Anyone know if Acme is out of business now? Their website doesn't seem to be working.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Mark Ra wrote:I purchased a 6-pack of OP knobs from Acme Climbing in Spokane, WA about a year ago. Anyone know if Acme is out of business now? Their website doesn't seem to be working.
Looks like Acme became Mountain Goat Outfitters (same address) and then went out of business in September 2015. Here's their FB page:
facebook.com/mountaingoatou…
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
Marc801 wrote:Will this eliminate the need for the crank? fasticeclimb.com/
The various handles and cranks will still be appreciated by the one who needs to remove the screws. But as I see it, the $$$ FastIce system will work just fine on non-knob BD screws.

Back on topic, I'm in the final prototyping stage for retrofit knobs. Who wants to be a beta tester for me?
RDW · · Toronto, Canada · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 185

Sorry for the delay - he's a couple pics of what I've done. As I said, this is pretty ghetto looking, but it works and was done for pennies/screw



RDW · · Toronto, Canada · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 185

For the record - GunkieMike's look (and likely function) WAY better than mine. If you're looking for beta testers - I'm in!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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