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Rock Climbing Photo: The crux as viewed from the side of the "boul...
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By Marta Reece
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jan 1, 2016
There are two protection opportunities before climbing the crux, under the lip as shown (red 0.1 X4) or in the hueco (#4 Camalot). Climbing directly above them is possible but holds become desperately small, definitely above the 5.8 rating. Going up the admittedly somewhat chossy slab to the left is how I have done it. Either one way leads to a horizontal crack below the diamond-shaped roof. Following this crack to the right is easy. There is one more slabby step of some interest, not as hard, after which the climbing becomes almost trivial.

The other way to do the crux, as done in the photo by Chuck Carrasco, is to stay left of the diamond-shaped roof by going up the slab there or even stepping with one foot onto a ledge down inside the gully. There is a danger of a pendulum involved and the horizontal crack does not extend this far. However, there is protection at about the same level in some wrinkles facing the gully and later in also in the short left-facing corner on the right. Some nice toe holds materialize at about that same time as well. Getting back up to the right is surprisingly straightforward.

Setting up a belay shortly after the crux, as Chuck is doing, is helpful for the second.
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The crux as viewed from the side of the "boulder."

Submitted By: Marta Reece on Jan 1, 2016
On this route:
Punch In The Nose (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c )
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