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Routes in Mt. Humphreys
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East Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Humphrey Dumphrey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hutchinson Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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NE Couloir to East Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Steep Snow |
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North Couloir Direct T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI3 Steep Snow |
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South East Buttress T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Southwest Slope and Northwest Face T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, Grade III |
| FA: | Norman Clyde, June 1935 |
| Page Views: | 20,213 total · 119/month |
| Shared By: | J Smith on Apr 19, 2010 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
This is a nice ridge with a ton of 3rd/4th class climbing and a few short 5th class sections mixed in.
Follow the ridge towards Peak 13,151 staying on the ridge as it tries to spit you off to the left (South). Climb fun 3rd and 4th class and walk the cool knife edge ridge as pictured in Croft's guide. As you near Peak 13,151 you are forced off the ridge to the South and must make a few 5th class moves and meander back and forth to reach the summit of Peak 13,151. From here you descend the ridge and encounter a short steep notch, 5.7 downclimb or rappel. Continue down the ridge and up the next sub-peak and on the other side another 5.6 downclimb or rappel. You are now at the main notch where many people begin the climb via hiking up the scree gully to the South.
Gain the ridge again as soon as you can via a 4th class trough. Continue on the 3rd/4th class ridge to a headwall. Go around the corner to the left and up 5.2 cracks. 3rd class leads to easier ground and eventually a flat plateau. Turn right (North) towards the summit staying low to the left of the ridge to reach a notch, Married Men's Point. Pick out the easiest line and climb 100ft or so of low 5th class and then 3rd class to the summit.
Descent: Downclimb the route rappelling where necessary. From the notch take the scree gullies to the South and then head East over talus. In early season the scree gullies can be full of snow which can't be seen from the approach.
Location
West on Hwy 168 (W. Line St.) from Bishop for 7.5 miles and turn right onto Buttermilk Rd. There are many side roads off of this road, always take the most traveled road. Around 6 miles turn left at a fork to go towards McGee Creek. After crossing the creek turn right at a fork and at the next few junctions stay right until you come to a dead end. The last few miles of the road are very rough and require high-clearance and possibly 4WD.
Start hiking on a trail and then break left heading cross-country to the West. Stay left of the cliff bands and head up one of the sandy loose gullies sometimes on use trails. Before reaching the lake at 10,990 (a few bivy sites here) head Northwest to the saddle between Peak 13,151 and Peak 12,241. The route begins here.
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