Another Accident due to mis-use of the Gri-gri

Guy Keesee wrote: Sport climbing, by definition, has no hi-factor falls.

Really? So, you don't believe in the existence of multi-pitch sport routes? Or, you're saying that, by definition, those aren't sport routes? Cause, I think that's probably a new definition -- most of us call all those multi-pitch bolt=protected routes, like the ones in EPC, multi-pitch sport climbing.

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Done

Well it's been fun!

bearbreeder wrote:.... If yr on the deadly ATC ... If you see a big fall coming, or a bir rock coming ... Simply twirling the rope around yr arm or another body part can save yr climber ...

Thanks for the useful idea, which I've never had to use in 4 decades of climbing, and hope I will never have to use it.

rob.calm

rob.calm wrote: Thanks for the useful idea, which I've never had to use in 4 decades of climbing, and hope I will never have to use it. rob.calm

Old lady H wrote: Hmmm...having trouble picturing this, so I'll have to give a whirl next time I've got a harness on. Maybe give the gym folks pause, eh?

here a shietty vid of the rope twirl, single wrap

youtube.com/watch?v=XKC05xm…

if you practice it its very fast ... but you likely wont get more than 2 in

notice how the solid brake hand never leaves the rope ... in fact the fist around the rope doesnt even move ... the final braking position is still at the hip and you still want to keep a SOLID brake hand on

basically it takes transters alot of the force to the semi-wrap around the wrist vs depending solely on grip strength

in most cases it wont matter ... but in a big fall that might be the difference between slippage and letting go because of rope burn ... and holding the rope

im surprised its not taught as "standard" for lighter climbers constantly holding heavier ones who are hangdogging

of course we can give all those "yoga pants" grigri, tell em to "let go" and call it a day ... till someone goes SPLAT

;)

What's special about 30?

r m wrote:What's special about 30?

One step closer to 31......

bearbreeder wrote:Well lets see if this gets to 30 .... A grigri can be quite useful on multi simply because of rockfall .... However if the rock and gear aint BOMBAH ... There is a serious risk of pulling out that key piece in a high factor fall Theres no "right" or "wrong" answer In squamish i aint too worried about the gear on a grigri .... In the crap limestone of the canadian rockies, well theres more rockfal but with a doubling of the force in a factor 1 fall yr also more likely to blow out that first piece How do u decide? If yr on the deadly ATC ... If you see a big fall coming, or a bir rock coming ... Simply twirling the rope around yr arm or another body part can save yr climber ... Its easy to practice at home Incidentaly for lighter folks who hate holding big AZN chubbies like me handogging ... The same technique works well for holding flubbies Parks Canada Visitor Safety was called to assist Kananaskis Public Safety for a climber who had been struck by falling rock, 2 pitches below the summit of Yamnuska. The party of 4 had intended to climb the route Diretissima but had gone off route. One of the lead climbers was approximately 30m up when a block he was on “the size of a mini fridge” gave way. He had a camming device behind the block which came out and he fell 10m with the block onto another camming device. The belayer saw the fall and the block coming, wrapped the rope around his leg and braced for impact. The rock broke in two and hit the belayer on the back and head, knocking him out, and severely damaging the rope. The fallen leader quickly made an anchor, fixed the climbing rope, and descended to the belayer on prussiks, while the other party above descended to help. They called Kananaskis Public Safety who instructed them to stay put and help was on the way. The belayer regained consciousness eventually, but was bleeding profusely from his head. The belayer luckily had the forethought to wrap the rope around his leg before impact. If he hadn’t, the outcome could have been much worse as the lead climber would have fallen much further. pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/mtn/secu…

Whats to say this wont result in a broken arm? And not to mention you're now sacrificing your safety as a belayer (loosing one point of contact or apendage to help you)... so stupid when the other option is using a locking device.

rgold wrote: I want to emphasize first that I wasn't trying to argue for any position about locking vs. non-locking devices.

But you did... and quite eloquently, as usual!

Morgan Patterson wrote: Whats to say this wont result in a broken arm? And not to mention you're now sacrificing your safety as a belayer (loosing one point of contact or apendage to help you)... so stupid when the other option is using a locking device.

well put it this way ... if the force is enough to "break you arm" even with the friction BELOW the ATC ... imagine what would have happened if you tried the "normal" grip

as to grigris ... i guess yr calling everyone stupid who doesnt use em on multi

theres plenty of reasons NOT to use a grigri on a multi ... the fall forces petzl listed for one if the rock/placements arent the most bomber ... and those "stupid" folks who travel fast and light who dont want to drag up another device

not to mention that devices like grigris can ice up when theres snow and water drip all over ... or get stuck/loose control on frozen ropes ... etc ...

on MP anyone who uses an ATC is STOOOPID

;)

Morgan Patterson wrote: Whats to say this wont result in a broken arm? And not to mention you're now sacrificing your safety as a belayer (loosing one point of contact or apendage to help you)... so stupid when the other option is using a locking device.

This STOOPID noob ATC user has at least gotten out of this thtead that, even when properly used, a grigri can be "fooled" in some circumstances. I too very most sincerely hope neither of us ever has to apply any of this, but I sure like having it lurking down in the dark depths of my subconscious, ready for adrenaline to yank that particular bunny out of the hat! Best, H.

Thanks, Bear et.al!

im saving my politically incorrect three paragraph rant for page 50. it should stoke the fire enough to get us into the 60th page or so.

Old lady H wrote: Thanks, Bear et.al!

Have you been practicing your rope trick? I know you'll be able to do it.

frank minunni wrote: Have you been practicing your rope trick? I know you'll be able to do it.

Gonna save it for when the (university) gym opens after their break. Always great fun to alarm and/or mystify the kids. Besides, every single time I've pulled out something unusual to practice there, there has been at least one or two who were very, very interested! I'm not the only addict, it seems. : )

climbing friend!

Great satisfaction of the page 30 is upon us! May you continue to enjoy your insult through tubes of internet!

Anyone who use deadly ATC should be wang-slapped! Or equivalent female.

Aleks Zebastian wrote:climbing friend! Great satisfaction of the page 30 is upon us! May you continue to enjoy your insult through tubes of internet! Anyone who use deadly ATC should be wang-slapped! Or equivalent female.

You wish! Well, okay. You did say equivalent. You do make me smile, thanks, sir. If we ever meet in person, I shall be honored to besplat myself attempting to belay your Splendiferousness. I'm thinking just bare handed. No point in bloodying up perfectly good equipment. Actually, we should just skip the rope too. Shoot, what do need me (or any belayer) for? You owe me anyway, since I offered.

Nice to have you back, beefy friend! Some of us were worried your recent absence bespoke an over consumption of frozen chipmunks and resultant explosion. Best, H., a.k.a. Ollllld. Bummer

Aleks Zebastian wrote:climbing friend! Great satisfaction of the page 30 is upon us! May you continue to enjoy your insult through tubes of internet! Anyone who use deadly ATC should be wang-slapped! Or equivalent female.

I've been wang-slapped by a few females myself. Sometimes I deserved I guess. Sometimes it was just fun (nod nod wink wink say no more say no more).

Tim Lutz wrote: I agree.

& yet I got wang slapped back on p 20 for saying just this ...

Tim Lutz wrote: Thats cuz the true crusties have left the building

I'm still here and ready to pontificate