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Glue-in newbie Q

Original Post
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

The few bolts I've placed have been 5 piece, but I'm aware that the future belongs to glue-ins. From what I've seen, the best glues come in tubes for glue guns equipped with a slender mixing nozzle. If I'm only bolting occasionally, will the glue harden in the nozzle such that I need a new one each day?

shotwell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 0

Absolutely. If you are only placing a few each day I think you will find the glue-ins to be very expensive; you will ruin a ton of nozzles and probably just as much adhesive.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Gunkiemike wrote:The few bolts I've placed have been 5 piece, but I'm aware that the future belongs to glue-ins. From what I've seen, the best glues come in tubes for glue guns equipped with a slender mixing nozzle. If I'm only bolting occasionally, will the glue harden in the nozzle such that I need a new one each day?
The resin hardens in the nozzle as fast as it does in the hole, with most resins except epoxies in 5 or 10 minutes, the epoxies generally a few hours. You get organised and blast all the bolts in in one session if you can, 45 or 50 with one nozzles is feasible (that´s two cartridges).
Odd single bolts you just bite the bullet and waste a nozzle and a fair amount of glue or change to glass capsules which are the standard for bolting alpine routes.
If you are bolting and worry about the cost of nozzles you have your priorities all wrong!
DrRockso RRG · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 815

Nozzles are cheap.

Sam Lightner, Jr. · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,732

Drill a bunch of holes at once.
Good for you for going with the extra pain in the ass. It is the best system we have.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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