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Another Accident due to mis-use of the Gri-gri

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
that guy named seb wrote: "When the handle is stuck in this position, the assisted braking function is disabled. A damaged GRIGRI 2 in this configuration will function similarly to a manual belay device (e.g. tube style device)." petzl.com/security/sport/re… If you are going to say something is wrong at least refer to a reliable source.
I have tried using a Grigri threaded backwards to test whether it would in fact behave like standard tube device. IMO it did not provide enough friction to safely arrest a fall. I am assuming that a Grigri that was not camming properly would be similar, although that is an assumption. I'm sure there are a lot of other variables like rope size, age etc...
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
csproul wrote: I have tried using a Grigri threaded backwards to test whether it would in fact behave like standard tube device. IMO it did not provide enough friction to safely arrest a fall. I am assuming that a Grigri that was not camming properly would be similar, although that is an assumption. I'm sure there are a lot of other variables like rope size, age etc...
I think the only real way to test it would be to jam the grigri preventing it from camming i couldn't imagine many ways to do this, maybe really strong zip ties? Lots and lots and lots of duct tape? wrapping it in accessory cord?
Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422
that guy named seb wrote: Good job tri loading a standard caribiner, you really know how to kill your self, at least get one of these. petzl.com/en/Sport/Carabine…
The only time the little trango gets loaded is in the event the petzl breaks and at that point the force on the system would be vastly reduced. Between that force reduction and rope stretch I have zero concerns about it and am more interested in that biner being low profile.
eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525
that guy named seb wrote: Good job tri loading a standard caribiner, you really know how to kill your self, at least get one of these. petzl.com/en/Sport/Carabine…
Do you by chance have a blog called JiveAss Anchors? Or do you just have a really long stick stuck up your butt? The only the slightly unsafe about Healyje's picture is that the main biner was unlocked. Other than that, I'd whip on it.

Also your claim that a gri-gri that doesn't cam is equivilent to a tube style device is just plain wrong. A large portion of an ATC's breaking power comes from the rope being pinched against the belay biner as the rope makes a sharp bend around a small radius (belay biner). This doesn't happen with a jammed gri.
Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422
eli poss wrote:The only the slightly unsafe about Healyje's picture is that the main biner was unlocked.
That's because I'm in my basement which, paradoxically, at least from a power tool perspective, is probably way more dangerous than the Eddy rig. At least I worry way more about using my table saw and router than the Eddy rigged that way.
Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118
that guy named seb wrote: I think the only real way to test it would be to jam the grigri preventing it from camming i couldn't imagine many ways to do this, maybe really strong zip ties? Lots and lots and lots of duct tape? wrapping it in accessory cord?
Oh yay! Another teenager who started climbing in 2013 has joined in to share his vast wisdom.
Matt Wilson · · Vermont, USA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 316

I threaded my ATC backwards once. My life flashed before my eyes.

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385
that guy named seb wrote: I think the only real way to test it would be to jam the grigri preventing it from camming i couldn't imagine many ways to do this, maybe really strong zip ties? Lots and lots and lots of duct tape? wrapping it in accessory cord?
A lot of what you are asking has already been covered, painstakingly so, by experimentation and real world accounts through the earlier parts of this thread.

It may be to your benefit to reread through comprehensively, all of the thread, and pick out the pertinent information.
Corey Herbert · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0
BigFeet wrote: A lot of what you are asking has already been covered, painstakingly so, by experimentation and real world accounts through the earlier parts of this thread. It may be to your benefit to reread through comprehensively, all of the thread, and pick out the pertinent information.
I can't fault him entirely. I think I was nineteen when I started reading this thread.
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Corey27 wrote: I can't fault him entirely. I think I was nineteen when I started reading this thread.
Thats funny, I'm feeling as old as Healyje after reading this thread.

And go figure, I still use the grigri 99% of the time AND dont really give a shit what my competent partners use (unless I'm climbing choss)
Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422
T Roper wrote:...my competent partners...
Being able to reliably make this assessment seems to be a major crux of the whole belaying issue.
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Healyje wrote: Being able to reliably make this assessment seems to be a major crux of the whole belaying issue.
no way, its the grigri!

no wait- its the cinch.
Magpie79 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 0
Matt Wilson wrote:I threaded my ATC backwards once. My life flashed before my eyes.
Maybe it was the LSD. Lol.
Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175
Buff Johnson wrote:In a gri gri world .... with fireballs and explosions..... One man finds the time to keep his goatee in pristine condition. even without proper grooming equipment. Some say he’s incredibly handsome, others say he’s the most handsome, but everyone says he’s the sport climber! I added some bolding for the meaningless emphasis in order to stay consistent with this topic.
Climbing friend,

Internet wang slap
of most holy failsafe gri
I love this device

you do not have to
hold the rope. you eat fishheads
while climber try hard

you may take pictures
send through tubes of internet
social media

Do not do worry
if your climber they falling
device does the work

don't read safety books
they wasting your time to train
you must pull harder
Christian RodaoBack · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 1,486
Jon H wrote: Oh yay! Another teenager who started climbing in 2013 has joined in to share his vast wisdom.
As Wilde would say, good thing I'm no longer young enough to know everything.
eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525
Aleks Zebastian wrote: Climbing friend, Internet wang slap of most holy failsafe gri I love this device you do not have to hold the rope. you eat fishheads while climber try hard you may take pictures send through tubes of internet social media Do not do worry if your climber they falling device does the work don't read safety books they wasting your time to train you must pull harder
Climbing friend,

My internet wang is bigger than yours because I do bold flash and use gri so my arms are refreshed at the crux
BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385
Tim Lutz wrote: reason #419 that the Gri Gri fails: fish head oil makes rope slick.
This is freaking hilarious! Tim, you need to publish this Grigri failure documentation, for it would be a great read.

Tim Lutz wrote: is there no end to the madness?!?!
It does not appear so.
Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175
eli poss wrote: Climbing friend, My internet wang is bigger than yours because I do bold flash and use gri so my arms are refreshed at the crux
Climbing friend,

It is yes a good technique for enjoyable power flash to no hand your grigri and rope during the belaying, saving your crushing arm strength for when you arrive at crux, hopefully with forearms refresh - myeah - refreshed like cool mist from waterfall Kjosfossen alighting upon leaves of purple heather at dawn on fine spring day.
Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422
T Roper wrote: no way, its the grigri! no wait- its the cinch.
I think you still misconstrue. There's nothing 'wrong' with either the grigri or the cinch. What's entirely wrong are the habits and behaviors people adopt over time using them. I'm guessing not many climbers today are immune from that 'training' and the result is to turn the entire demographic into a random dropping generator.

Magpie79 wrote: Maybe it was the LSD. Lol.
And I'm guessing you'd have to dose the average climber a couple of times for them to 'get' how to reliably belay with either device such that they are no longer in danger of being part of the statistic.
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Healyje wrote: I think you still misconstrue. There's nothing 'wrong' with either the grigri or the cinch. What's entirely wrong are the habits and behaviors people adopt over time using them. I'm guessing not many climbers today are immune from that 'training' and the result is to turn the entire demographic into a random dropping generator.
No way man, its the grigri death contraption. You cant make me forget what you taught me.

Grigris are dangerous, especially when combined with Home Depot rope, fish oil and n00bs.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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