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Rock Climbing Photo: Pecker in an overlap.
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By Kauait
From: Sandy Utah
Nov 26, 2015
Mark. Huge respect/big fan.but Shouldn't that piece be clipped through your tie off on the upper hole of the beak? Seems like (as pictured) that would create more force by camming your beak out! I'm a 176+ pound guy and I'm sure I would have pulled that out with a lite bounce test..I guess what I'm saying I'm to many beers deep and stuck at home and wishing I was standing on something that scares me.. nice climb (Genesis) well done. What's next?
By Mark Hudon
From: Lives on the road
Nov 27, 2015
We did clip the top loop on others but not this one for some reason. This is Skot's placement. He weighs 150 or so.
It could be argued that clipping only on the bottom loop would cam the blade into the crack more securely if that part of the crack was thinner. It could also be argued that clipping into only the top could cause the piece to pull straight out.

I was freaked when I started using the Peckers this way but there was enough of it on this route that we both got to pretty used to it by the end.

It's a judgment call really. The motto I use on aid is: "make your best placement, bounce the hell out of it, get on it and forget about it."

Freerider, NIAD (first 60 year old team) and something like Tempest or Sea of Dreams.

Cheers
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 23, 2016
Wow...freaky placement, Mark & Skot. Bounce testing that most have been exciting.
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Pecker in an overlap.

Submitted By: Mark Hudon on Nov 25, 2015
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