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how to shorten cordelette for small anchor

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740
rgold wrote:I'm not a cordelette fan myself, but I think the best implementation is not to knot the cord into a loop at all and not to tie small loops in the ends either. The following video shows how to do it youtube.com/watch?v=qF4A85C… for how this is done. Among other things, totally solves the adjustment problem raised by the OP.
I've been using this ever since I saw this video. Either this, or make an anchor for the 2nd with the lead rope.
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Everyone already answered you, but do yourself a favor and pick this up.

amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-An…

Kiri Namtvedt · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 30

Re: the video of the better way to tie a cordelette, since he keeps the loose ends together throughout the procedure, couldn't you do the exact same thing with a tied cordelette (keeping the knot in hand the way he does the loose ends)? You could do the exact same "adjusting the height of the masterpoint" action whether the cordelette was tied in a loop or not.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
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