Camalot 2 or 3

If you have a placement and have cams to spare, is it better to place a cam near the bottom end of its range (almost but not under camed) or the #2 at the end of its range?

Generally, you should place the largest piece that won't get stuck

The larger cam will have more holding power but is more likely to be difficult to remove. The smaller cam will be more likely to walk with rope drag or otherwise move into an unsafe position.

In general, I'll usually go with the larger cam as long as there's still some retraction in the lobes so it won't get stuck. I'll worry less about the smaller cam if it's in a pod in the crack and doesn't have anywhere to walk.

Thanks guys great advise.

Depends on how run out etc you are. Overcaming is more likely to get stuck so if it is really run out I would much rather risk losing a cam to it getting stuck than risk taking a massive fall and getting hurt. Even a big came is alot cheaper than doctor bills.

Sounds like a purple Demon/4CU/Friend placement.

I would rather it be close to over-cammed (and hard to clean) than under-cammed, and likely to pull out.

I will go with the larger piece when i can, as not only is it "usually" safer, stronger, but it also takes a few more grams off my harness.
BUT the biggest determining factor when i am placing gear and have a choice like that is what is up ahead; is the pro getting wider, or thinner, and what do i have in like pieces on the harness. If i have 2 - 2's and only one 3, if the 2 looks good, use it. It is more than just a simple question.

I just tested this and there's a good bit of overlap, so I will always be OK with one or the other in a parallel crack. But in a flaring crack I would use the 3 because if a 2 walked it only has a little upper range wiggle room

Muscrat wrote:I will go with the larger piece when i can, as not only is it "usually" safer, stronger, but it also takes a few more grams off my harness. BUT the biggest determining factor when i am placing gear and have a choice like that is what is up ahead; is the pro getting wider, or thinner, and what do i have in like pieces on the harness. If i have 2 - 2's and only one 3, if the 2 looks good, use it. It is more than just a simple question.

Depends on how big the piece is. If it's a BD #4 or bigger, the single most important aspect is where you are in the pitch, especially in relation to the crux. It is absolutely imperative to load the second down (and thus lighten yourself) with the biggest boat-anchor you brought that day, as early in the pitch as possible. It's a fun game I like to call "screw the second".

GO

GabeO wrote: Depends on how big the piece is. If it's a BD #4 or bigger, the single most important aspect is where you are in the pitch, especially in relation to the crux. It is absolutely imperative to load the second down (and thus lighten yourself) with the biggest boat-anchor you brought that day, as early in the pitch as possible. It's a fun game I like to call "screw the second". GO

This.

I cheer when I can ditch a big piece, a BD #4 or 5 early on in a climb, so that my second has to carry it up the rest of the pitch!

ViperScale wrote:Depends on how run out etc you are. Overcaming is more likely to get stuck so if it is really run out I would much rather risk losing a cam to it getting stuck than risk taking a massive fall and getting hurt. Even a big came is alot cheaper than doctor bills.

^^^^^^^ THIS!