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Routes in El Mirador
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Access Denied S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bajo la lupa T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Coatimundi S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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El Tlacuache TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Face the Music S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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La Prisa Mata S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Libertad S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Luna de la mañana S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sky Top Buttress S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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When the Cat's Away, the Rats will Play S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Yogi Goes to Mexico S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Yogi Unchained S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Pat and Russ |
| Page Views: | 1,334 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Tim Fry on Feb 12, 2015 |
| Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco |
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Description
4 pitches, topping out with a nice view into the Virgin Canyon and a humbling look at The Scariest Ride in the Park. The main attraction of this climb is sport climbing in a full on limestone chimney (P2).
P1: 5.8. Up blocky left facing dihedral.
P2: 5.9. The money pitch. Fun and pretty clean chimney, complete with entertaining chockstone. Guide calls it 5.9, but if you compare it to any of the Epinephrine chimneys in Red Rocks it would feel more like 5.7. Still, lots of fun to climb a sport bolted limestone chimney. Do what you can not to let your rope knock anything loose on your way up-- anything you send down is gonna funnel straight to your belayer.
P3. 5.10. Crimps and vertical pockets, passing an intermediate rap station about 30 feet in. Crux is a little bulge you have to negotiate around or through.
P4. 5.9. Take it to the top.
Notes:
P1 and P2 can (and probably should) be linked as the two together are only 35m.
We linked P3 and P4 with a 70m rope, but not without some drag, and it used most of the rope. Might be better to pitch these out.
Descent:
Rap the route. With a 70m, this can be done in 3 raps, ignoring the intermediate anchor and rapping from the top of P2 to ground. You probably want to saddlebag your ropes for the chimney rap so you don't get them wrapped around the chockstone or lost somewhere tough to reach.
With a 60, you'll need that intermediate, and you'll take it from the intermediate to the top of P1, then to ground, for 4 raps total. The plus side here is that it should keep your ropes out of the chimney.
P1: 5.8. Up blocky left facing dihedral.
P2: 5.9. The money pitch. Fun and pretty clean chimney, complete with entertaining chockstone. Guide calls it 5.9, but if you compare it to any of the Epinephrine chimneys in Red Rocks it would feel more like 5.7. Still, lots of fun to climb a sport bolted limestone chimney. Do what you can not to let your rope knock anything loose on your way up-- anything you send down is gonna funnel straight to your belayer.
P3. 5.10. Crimps and vertical pockets, passing an intermediate rap station about 30 feet in. Crux is a little bulge you have to negotiate around or through.
P4. 5.9. Take it to the top.
Notes:
P1 and P2 can (and probably should) be linked as the two together are only 35m.
We linked P3 and P4 with a 70m rope, but not without some drag, and it used most of the rope. Might be better to pitch these out.
Descent:
Rap the route. With a 70m, this can be done in 3 raps, ignoring the intermediate anchor and rapping from the top of P2 to ground. You probably want to saddlebag your ropes for the chimney rap so you don't get them wrapped around the chockstone or lost somewhere tough to reach.
With a 60, you'll need that intermediate, and you'll take it from the intermediate to the top of P1, then to ground, for 4 raps total. The plus side here is that it should keep your ropes out of the chimney.
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