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California
> Sierra Eastside
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> Wheeler Crest
> Wells Peak / Rabbit Ears
God's Grace
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in Wells Peak / Rabbit Ears
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Adam's Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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December's Children T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Direct North Ridge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire On The Mountain T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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God's Grace T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Smokestack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches |
| FA: | Mike Strassman, 2004(?) |
| Page Views: | 1,156 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Richard Shore on Oct 24, 2015 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Excellent thin-face and slab climbing on quality stone up the right-hand margin of Adam's Rib (aka Right Rabbit Ear). 4 new bolted pitches lead to another 4 pitches of somewhat grainy and bushy cracks with occasional runout face. The last 3 pitches are shared with the routes "Adam's Rib" and "Eve's Wang."
P1) Up the arete on the right edge of the tower, left across a dike/slab, then up cracks to a belay atop a large rounded block. 6 bolts + gear to bolted anchor. 5.10-
P2) Straight up the sustained slab. 10 or 11 bolts to bolted anchor. 5.10c
P3) Up and right through the small roof/flake, then straight up the face above. 7 bolts + gear to bolted anchor. 5.9/10-
P4) Straight up the face past 6 bolts (skipping an off-route 7th bolt up and left), then traverse right past 4 or 5 more bolts through a short & desperately blank smearing section which felt a bit harder than the proposed 5.10c grade. Beyond the bolts, continue up a lieback corner and step left onto a large ledge. 10 or 11 bolts + gear, tree anchor. 5.11a
P5) This is where things start to get funky, and don't quite match up with the topo. There are a few possible options here, so take my beta with a grain of salt. Left off the belay, 10' up a crack, 10' left across a nice dike to a right-leaning thin crack/flake. Over a small roof, then up and left past a wafer-thin and expando flake (think light and crank softly). Gear to bolted anchor. Short pitch, 5.10a R
P6) A foot-then-hand traverse straight right for 50' past a few bushes to a gear anchor in a nice handcrack/flake. Another short pitch, 5.8. One can escape out right into the gully from here. (Alternatively, there is a 10a thin crack above the bolted anchor - this is the direct finish for Adam's Rib & Eve's Wang)
P7) Up the steep face past an old bolt (hard to spot) and left to the corner. Continue up the bushy and somewhat loose cracks above. 5.8 R
P8) Another bushy crack pitch to the summit. 5.7
P1) Up the arete on the right edge of the tower, left across a dike/slab, then up cracks to a belay atop a large rounded block. 6 bolts + gear to bolted anchor. 5.10-
P2) Straight up the sustained slab. 10 or 11 bolts to bolted anchor. 5.10c
P3) Up and right through the small roof/flake, then straight up the face above. 7 bolts + gear to bolted anchor. 5.9/10-
P4) Straight up the face past 6 bolts (skipping an off-route 7th bolt up and left), then traverse right past 4 or 5 more bolts through a short & desperately blank smearing section which felt a bit harder than the proposed 5.10c grade. Beyond the bolts, continue up a lieback corner and step left onto a large ledge. 10 or 11 bolts + gear, tree anchor. 5.11a
P5) This is where things start to get funky, and don't quite match up with the topo. There are a few possible options here, so take my beta with a grain of salt. Left off the belay, 10' up a crack, 10' left across a nice dike to a right-leaning thin crack/flake. Over a small roof, then up and left past a wafer-thin and expando flake (think light and crank softly). Gear to bolted anchor. Short pitch, 5.10a R
P6) A foot-then-hand traverse straight right for 50' past a few bushes to a gear anchor in a nice handcrack/flake. Another short pitch, 5.8. One can escape out right into the gully from here. (Alternatively, there is a 10a thin crack above the bolted anchor - this is the direct finish for Adam's Rib & Eve's Wang)
P7) Up the steep face past an old bolt (hard to spot) and left to the corner. Continue up the bushy and somewhat loose cracks above. 5.8 R
P8) Another bushy crack pitch to the summit. 5.7
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